[Cookie]

I have an L & R LPR flintlock that I would like to take apart. I know that there are spring vises available and I would like to get one of those, but looking around, I see some other gizmos that appear to be necessary.

I've tools for removing the hammer and pressing it back on. And also the screw for the hammer is very wide and has a very narrow slot.

Does anyone have any experience tinkering with sidelocks, flint or hammer, and what can I expect in trying to take one apart and put it back together again?

Here is the basic procedure from L & R from their page on the subject:

SEQUENCE OF LOCK DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove main spring: a. Hammer must be all the way down. b. Compress any spring only the amount necessary. Overstress will collapse or break it. A pair of pliers is best. 2. Remove stirrup: Take note that it hangs in the "S" position with small end in the tumbler. Any other position can cause damage! ("Z" position for left hand models only.) 3. Remove sear spring. 4. Remove sear screw and sear. (When reinstalling, tighten screw only until contact is made between bridle and sear. Then back up 1/4 turn, so sear will operate freely.) 5. Remove top bridle screw and bridle. 6. To remove the tumbler from the plate: a: Take out hammer screw. b: Using the jaws of a vise, tum the tumbler side of the plate down, with the vise jaws only far enough apart to allow the tumbler to fit freely. Now, using a punch that will just fit the square hammer hole, tap the tumbler out of the hammer. Caution: Keep track of the fly during this operation! 7. Remove fly from tumbler. (Take note of the fly's position regarding its beveled edge. It must be reinstalled in the same way.) 8. Remove frizzen spring screw and spring. 9. Remove frizzen pivot screw and frizzen.​

LOCK REASSEMBLY 1. Install frizzen and pivot screw. 2. Install frizzen spring and screw. 3. Install fly in tumbler. (Remember the position of the beveled edge.) 4. Install tumbler in plate. 5. Install bridle and top screw. 6. Install sear and sear spring. (Remember about screw tension.) 7. Install stirrup so that it "hangs" properly. 8. Install main spring. (Be sure tumbler is in relaxed position, as if hammer were all the way down.) 9. With pliers or properly adjusted vise grips, tum the hammer pole to the "half cock" position. Press the hammer onto the tumbler. Install the hammer screw. If the hammer is properly tight on the tumbler, it should not be necessary to do more than "finger tighten" the hammer screw. ** If you are not certain how to proceed, or if you have any questions, PLEASE don't hesitate to call.**​

The first thing I am looking for is a flat driver tip that is wide enough and narrow enough for the hammer screw. Any clues for that?

 

[galyc4]

Hey Cookie this is just my opinion but I go out and buy good screwdrivers and grind them down until they just fit the slot but I work with Martini Henrys so I can use them over and over. That way you get the best possible fit and best chance of not buggering the screw head. Just me and my opinion.

PS: those minature vise grips work great on the large springs in the locks

 

[galyc4]

Another PS I also have had good luck with one of those $22 ultrasonic cleaners from Harbor Freight and boiling hot soapy water on those greasy locks they come out like new. Just what worked for me.

 

[Cookie]

Hey Cookie this is just my opinion but I go out and buy good screwdrivers and grind them down until they just fit the slot but I work with Martini Henrys so I can use them over and over. That way you get the best possible fit and best chance of not buggering the screw head. Just me and my opinion.

PS: those minature vise grips work great on the large springs in the locks

I would prefer a screw driver bit that works in a socket, but I still need something wider than typical. It needs to be about 1/2" wide. Once I find something like that, I suppose I could grind it down, although it would be tool steel. Are your screwdrivers that wide?

 

[Hawkins]

The spring may snap if you use pliers. Try cocking the lock and placing a small open end wrench over the spring.
Then release the sear and the spring is contained. The spring was intedded to have the force applied on the
end and it flexes the whole length. When you use pliers on the middle the stress flow is different.
I won't say how I found this out.

 

[jjk308 In Memoriam RIP]

Hey Cookie this is just my opinion but I go out and buy good screwdrivers and grind them down until they just fit the slot

Ditto, except I buy cheap screwdrivers to mangle because I'm A. A cheapskate, and B. Not real proficient with my bench grinder. :grin:

 

[Clyde]

I would agree with the "Get a screwdriver and grind to fit" advice. I like the wood-handled ones in the cheapie bin at he ahrdware store - no plating, honest steel, square shanks you can put wrench on if you need extra torque.

A far as the mainspring is concerned, I would go to one of the good suppliers like Track of the Wolf and get a spring compressor. They are purpose made for the job and work well. And are not terribly expensive - .much cheaper than replacing a broken spring.

 

[Cookie]

The spring may snap if you use pliers. Try cocking the lock and placing a small open end wrench over the spring.
Then release the sear and the spring is contained. The spring was intedded to have the force applied on the
end and it flexes the whole length. When you use pliers on the middle the stress flow is different.
I won't say how I found this out.

Brilliant. I got out a little 6mm open end wrench, slipped it over the spring and wedged into place, cocked the hammer back and the spring just slipped right out. You just saved me twenty bucks. I should say that if the wrench slips off the spring while the spring is off the lock, you are in for a struggle somewhere, but as long as you are careful to keep the wrench on the spring while the spring is off the lock, it works fine. Slipping the spring back into place was just the reverse process. Very nice.

Here is some good stuff on gunsmithing screwdrivers:

http://www.finegunmaking.com/page16/page16.html

....
The most useful screwdrivers for double-gunners come in the Magna-Tip Thin Bit set. With eighteen bits in nine widths and .020-inch- or .025-inch-thick blades, these are the closest to correct size of any I’ve found. For the most part, this set will work well for the screws of many American-made doubles.
....

 

[DK PHILLIPS]

many a spring will break from pressure relief.....that would have lasted many years it left captured in my opinion......cleaning in place lube in place.....is a need unless broken in place!
but like your research......
screw drivers cut, hardened, and yes cold blued or quinched blued just to see any give or damage happening from use.....you know to give me heads up to reshaping needs before transferred damage to screw heads.....

simple fourmla: $ 10 screw driver bad fitting..... a few $ 5 screws buggered ......$ 800 gun.....
sale now reduced to $700!