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I fell into my Daudeteau back in mid 70s for 55.00. Did not get to shoot it until about 79 or 80s when I called Huntington and was told one of the employees there had obtained one in a gun show and they cast the chamber and made a reamer and wallah!!!! they had dies. My friend also had one and we both ordered a set of dies. I called Huntington about 91 and they said at that time they had only made three sets including one for their employee.
Insofar as making brass, 7.62X54 IS THE WAY TO GO with one advisory. I used Norma once fired cases and formed them up and about half OF THESE broke IN HALF about one inch from from rim on FIRST firing. I then stress relieved them half way down the case and have never had a failure since.
The best way I have found to stress relieve is to turn a case holder that will hold it from rod stock about 5/8" diameter. Turn one end down to 3/8" about one inch long. This is the end that will go in drill.
Bore the other end about one inch deep and big enough the 7.62 X 54 case will fall in and stop.
Set up propane torch to where the bright blue flame is about one inch long. JUST BARELY ON and will take some fine adjustments. As the case is turning in the drill (about 100 RPM) put the case BODY in the flame to where the bright blue flame is just touching the case. This will take some trial to see what works best but start with flame about 1/4" below the shoulder and start to count in seconds. (Note: to achieve stress relief further down the case you may need to start 3/8" below the neck or 1/2". Experience is the best teacher here. On a case this size at about 6 seconds you will just just he slightest color change of the brass in one small band, when you see this immediately move the case so the flame follows the case to the neck in one motion lasting not over a second. DO NOT WAIT TILL THE WHOLE THING TURNS BLUE ! ! ! ! If you do you have probably burned the brass.
Again as soon as you see it change pull the drill body away running the flame towards the neck (somewhat quickly and keep it moving) and then point drill down and drop it on towel. DO NOT DROP IN WATER ! ! ! ! I found best way is to hold drill against your stomach with it turned on and variable speed set to low rpm. Hold drill with both hands and it takes alot of strain off the hands. My drills are 3/8" Craftsman as they not only are variable they can be set to run slow. My big 1/2" Milwaukee is variable but won't hold the slow RPM with out a lot of strain.
What you are looking for is a bright blue finish which you will see happen as the case is dropped onto the towel. Applying the heat to the body AND NOT THE NECK for the 6 or so seconds will keep the neck from getting overheated as obviously it is thin at that point. This should give you a BRIGHT BLUE tinge about 1/2" below the shoulder.
You don't need to wear gloves in this operation as you never touch a hot case. Just be careful not to touch the holder as it will get hot. When finished I lay my drill on a concrete floor so it will not touch anything until the holder cools.
Oh yes on Craftsmans drills the front is supported by a bushing. You need to lube these with Mobil 1 synthetic oil occasionally and they will last for many years. If you have a drill that is loose and you have a lathe you can make a mandrell, push out the old bushing and press in another bushing you have made and you are good to go again. I got replacement bushing from Sears parts house. They are pennies.
Look at a Lake City 308 case to see what the color you are trying to achieve.
It will take you a few cases to get the technique down but once you do you will turn out cases with a blue tinge that would make the girls at Lake City envious.
ALWAYS BEAR IN MIND PROPANE TORCHES HAVE RUINED MORE CASES THAN THEY HELPED SO GO EVER SO GENTLY BECAUSE ONCE BRASS IS "BURNED" IT IS RUINED.
Insofar as making brass, 7.62X54 IS THE WAY TO GO with one advisory. I used Norma once fired cases and formed them up and about half OF THESE broke IN HALF about one inch from from rim on FIRST firing. I then stress relieved them half way down the case and have never had a failure since.
The best way I have found to stress relieve is to turn a case holder that will hold it from rod stock about 5/8" diameter. Turn one end down to 3/8" about one inch long. This is the end that will go in drill.
Bore the other end about one inch deep and big enough the 7.62 X 54 case will fall in and stop.
Set up propane torch to where the bright blue flame is about one inch long. JUST BARELY ON and will take some fine adjustments. As the case is turning in the drill (about 100 RPM) put the case BODY in the flame to where the bright blue flame is just touching the case. This will take some trial to see what works best but start with flame about 1/4" below the shoulder and start to count in seconds. (Note: to achieve stress relief further down the case you may need to start 3/8" below the neck or 1/2". Experience is the best teacher here. On a case this size at about 6 seconds you will just just he slightest color change of the brass in one small band, when you see this immediately move the case so the flame follows the case to the neck in one motion lasting not over a second. DO NOT WAIT TILL THE WHOLE THING TURNS BLUE ! ! ! ! If you do you have probably burned the brass.
Again as soon as you see it change pull the drill body away running the flame towards the neck (somewhat quickly and keep it moving) and then point drill down and drop it on towel. DO NOT DROP IN WATER ! ! ! ! I found best way is to hold drill against your stomach with it turned on and variable speed set to low rpm. Hold drill with both hands and it takes alot of strain off the hands. My drills are 3/8" Craftsman as they not only are variable they can be set to run slow. My big 1/2" Milwaukee is variable but won't hold the slow RPM with out a lot of strain.
What you are looking for is a bright blue finish which you will see happen as the case is dropped onto the towel. Applying the heat to the body AND NOT THE NECK for the 6 or so seconds will keep the neck from getting overheated as obviously it is thin at that point. This should give you a BRIGHT BLUE tinge about 1/2" below the shoulder.
You don't need to wear gloves in this operation as you never touch a hot case. Just be careful not to touch the holder as it will get hot. When finished I lay my drill on a concrete floor so it will not touch anything until the holder cools.
Oh yes on Craftsmans drills the front is supported by a bushing. You need to lube these with Mobil 1 synthetic oil occasionally and they will last for many years. If you have a drill that is loose and you have a lathe you can make a mandrell, push out the old bushing and press in another bushing you have made and you are good to go again. I got replacement bushing from Sears parts house. They are pennies.
Look at a Lake City 308 case to see what the color you are trying to achieve.
It will take you a few cases to get the technique down but once you do you will turn out cases with a blue tinge that would make the girls at Lake City envious.
ALWAYS BEAR IN MIND PROPANE TORCHES HAVE RUINED MORE CASES THAN THEY HELPED SO GO EVER SO GENTLY BECAUSE ONCE BRASS IS "BURNED" IT IS RUINED.