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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I've enjoyed my CZ52 for 5 years and have put several thousand rounds through it with very few problems. I'm having a problem now when I drop an empty mag the slide slams forward. Also if the slide is back and I insert a full mag it slams shut. I hope this is an easy fix. I love to shoot and reload for the 52 also, but when it comes to diagnosing problems I fall short. Thanks for any help.
BR
 

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Mine did that too. There are two possible causes: Your slide release is worn down, or your slide is worn down. If you pop off the slide you can see the ledge where the slide stop engages the slide- when mine started doing this i found the edge was essentially worn round, as opposed to the sharp shoulder it should be. I filed it flat again and now the problem is fixed with military magazines but the gun still acts up with after-market magazines. The slide release, where it contacts the slide, may also be worn round. Try getting a new slide release first(unless you can clearly identify whether the slide or the release is the one worn out), and if that still doesn't work go at it with the file.
 

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I have that same problem. I have two 52's (and 1 mag each) and if I use the magazine that did not come with the particular pistol this happens. However I have four milsurp mags on their way to me.

Also, when I lay the pistol down on it's side at the range, with slide held open, it will sometimes "slam home." I avoid accidents by not leaving the slide open with a loaded magazine.

Jon.
 

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Does this Help?

This is a pretty rough photo, but it shows how the slide catch & release bar fits into the frame and how the spring articulates with it:

................................


The catch that actually holds the slide back is on the outside, while there is a tab that goes in the "D" shaped hole onto which the forward leg of the spring rests and exerts downward pressure to keep the catch normally out of the way.

Another tab (which can be seen in the upper right of this photo taken from the inside of the magazine well:

....

(You can see the end of the spring just hanging over the top of the bar tab.)

(Another View):

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...protrudes from the outside through the wall of the frame into the mag well; the "lip" on the front of the magazine follower pushes up on this after the last round is expended, overcoming the spring tension and lifting the catch lug into engagement with the rectangular recess milled into the inside side rail of the slide, holding it back.

Here is a view from the outside showing the "Hand" that engages the follower at the rear of the slide stop bar, the slide stop lug itself ( Larger rectangular center tab projecting upwards ) and aft of that the tab upon which the front leg of the helical spring rests.

....


If you look at the underside of your slide:

...............................


You should see the recess into which the catch engages just forward of the left locking roller on the inside of the slide wall (on the right in the picture of inverted slide).

If you push up on the catch bar with your thumb, (Slide dismounted) the catch will pop up from behind the top of the left grip panel.



Insertion of an empty magazine should have the same effect.

Make sure that the corners of both the catch and the recess are square and sharp.

If the lip on your mag follower is bent down, that will result in failure to catch the slide as well.

 

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I had that problem on one of my CZ52's. One thing to look at is the mag release. If it gets bent back a bit it won't lock the mag all the way up and therefore won't force up the slide release far enough.

Another thing I've found is if the angle of the mag follower isn't ramped up enough to push the slide release up far enough. Take out the follower and bend the legs equally so that the front of the follower ramps up higher to catch the lip of the slide release.

All this assuming your mag springs are good. Try a Wolffe spring at gunsprings.com
 

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Good Observation!

Those are great observations, mikej21 - thanks for sharing 'em!

I've seen the followers dinged up to where they don't lift the tab up enough, but I'd never considered the "ramp angle" factor before - good one!

Before we go monkeying with the magazine follower though, make sure that the little "hand" on the slide catch bar is not bent up or otherwise damaged. Since it is a smaller and more delicate part, that would be more likely to be the culprit IMHO, and unnecessarily altering the angle of the follower could lead to feeding issues.

In the way of an illustration:

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It might not be a bad idea to determine what the angle is supposed to be so that it could be checked as part of the diagnostic process. We could make a stick with the end cut at that angle to stick down into the well and use as a gauge. If there was a gap between the bottom of the gauge and the front or rear of the follower then you'd know it was off.

As for the magazine catch - if it is bent and needed repair or replacement:

Here is the dismounted main spring assembly including the mainspring strut, spring, and magazine release latch which locks the mainspring on to the lower end of the strut and into the backstrap frame.

..............


And if you ever have to dismount the spring assembly, here's how I do it:

Remove Grip Panel Retainer Spring Clip:

.........


Here I'm using one of my CZ-52 "Grip Clip Flipper" Tools; there are other ways to do it though, using a coin or screwdriver.

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If the panels don't just fall off, poke a pinky up into the magazine well and push them off from the inside.

...


Pull the mag latch lever forward until it "snaps" off of it's little shelf in the frame:

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Now pull the lever BACK:

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....and "POP!"; the mainspring spits the latch off of the end of the strut, like so!:

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Here's another illustration of the process:

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...Now getting it all back together is where the fun begins; especially if you've installed a heavier mainspring or shimmed the old one:

......


Some guys just clamp the pistol in a vise and muckle on to the mag latch with a pair of pliers or vise grips and horse it in. Risk of chewing up latch that way, but to each their own.
 

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I've messed with the tab on the slide release when I shouldn't have. It was the follower.

Compare the slide realease tab with a new one before bending the tab. It'll weaken the metal and then you will have tab problems.

As a matter of fact don't even mess with the mag latch before you check how the ramp on the follower is. The follower is less critical in metal fatique than the slide tab as the pressure physics is involved.

Compare different magazines if you have them.

I've bought new slides, filed what looked like rounded slide locks, replaced slide releases, bent and fatiqued slide release tabs, fought putting back in mag latches after tweaking them in a vice and it was the follower all the time.


I use Wolfe springs on all my CZ mags.

I've never had feeding problems with any of my CZ's, only slide locking problems.

Vice grips work great for mag latches. Just be gentle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
slide stop

Thank you all for the responses. Uncle Jaque taking time to share your vast knowledge and superb photos speaks volumes about you. I plan to keep my CZ-52 for many more years and hopefully get another soon. The more I learn about the workings of this pistol and how to correct problems only insures that I’ll enjoy my CZ-52 for a long time.
My problem seems in large part if not totally due to play in the slide stop catch. I can push the pivot pin in and out slightly with my finger. Will staking the pin ensure that I have enough tension on the catch, or possibly too much and maybe not allowing the catch to move freely? Would replacing the pin with a bolt be an option?
Thanks,
BR
 

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Thank you all for the responses. Uncle Jaque taking time to share your vast knowledge and superb photos speaks volumes about you. I plan to keep my CZ-52 for many more years and hopefully get another soon. The more I learn about the workings of this pistol and how to correct problems only insures that I’ll enjoy my CZ-52 for a long time.
My problem seems in large part if not totally due to play in the slide stop catch. I can push the pivot pin in and out slightly with my finger. Will staking the pin ensure that I have enough tension on the catch, or possibly too much and maybe not allowing the catch to move freely? Would replacing the pin with a bolt be an option?
Thanks,
BR
If you buy an unissued catch pin, it will be a fraction of an inch longer and protrude thru the side of the frame.With it in place, if you rest the head of the pin on a rounded hard surface(I use the top of a vise) and only have the head making contact, NOTHING ELSE of the pistol making contact, you can tap the protruding end of the pin. It will flare out and staking won't be necessary. If you hit it too hard the slide release may be too tight. If so, gently tap the flared end of the pin with the right size punch, with a relief hole for the head side, until the slide release functions properly. No bolt necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
slide problem

If you buy an unissued catch pin, it will be a fraction of an inch longer and protrude thru the side of the frame.With it in place, if you rest the head of the pin on a rounded hard surface(I use the top of a vise) and only have the head making contact, NOTHING ELSE of the pistol making contact, you can tap the protruding end of the pin. It will flare out and staking won't be necessary. If you hit it too hard the slide release may be too tight. If so, gently tap the flared end of the pin with the right size punch, with a relief hole for the head side, until the slide release functions properly. No bolt necessary.
Mike,
I flared my old pin and BINGO it did exactly as you said. Now I cannot make it malfunction. Thanks for fixing a potentially dangerous condition and teaching me something that will no doubt be useful again someday.
Bart
 

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Mike,
I flared my old pin and BINGO it did exactly as you said. Now I cannot make it malfunction. Thanks for fixing a potentially dangerous condition and teaching me something that will no doubt be useful again someday.
Bart

Your welcome. I've learned thru trial and error. I love cz's.

Here's a handy trick if you want to completely diassemble your pistol or replace the sear/spring. In my case I Dura Coated one of mine. To reinstall the sear & spring.(The hardest part) Have an extra hammer strut pin . Use it to assemble the sear and sear spring. Slip that into the frame and align. Then drive the sear pin thru the frame. It will knock the hammer pin used to hold the sear assembly in place out of the other side leaving the sear pin in place with the installed sear/spring assembly.

Take care
 

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One more thing; old news; If you remove the mag follower and grind off (if I remember right) about 1/4 inch off the long leg (rear leg) and then reassemble the mag. It will then have a 9 round capacity. I've done it to a 1/2 dozen of mine without problems.
 

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Great Minds....

....To reinstall the sear & spring.(The hardest part) Have an extra hammer strut pin . Use it to assemble the sear and sear spring. Slip that into the frame and align. Then drive the sear pin thru the frame. It will knock the hammer pin used to hold the sear assembly in place out of the other side leaving the sear pin in place with the installed sear/spring assembly.
Brilliant minds do think alike, don't they Mike!

Actually your method is a better one for those who don't have a lot of gunsmithing tools about; I used a 3/16" pin punch in exactly the same way.

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..................


That scanned shop sketch leaves a little to be desired as the pencil text is hard to read - I've been meaning to edit it with graphics text for a couple of years now.

Driving the Sear Pin. Essentially reverse the process to re install.
.........


As you know well I'm sure; watch that little sear spring, and keep it covered while fooling with it - some people even cover it with a piece of cloth. If it gets loose on you, as it is very wont to do, it will FLY, ricochet around the room a few times, and good luck finding it after it lights!
 

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First impression

Well it appears I made a very good choice in joining this forum. Learned more in this thread in a few minutes than I have in a month doing other research. Wow, very impressive and the illustrations are over the top. I think I am going to really enjoy this site. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sear?

My last range session with my CZ-52 was exciting. I had a couple double fires with my handlloads. Really got my attention! I tried a mag of surplus with no problems. The first round of the next mag of sirplus fired fine, it cycled, fed the next round and FTF with the hammer down. Maybe the sirplus primer is harder and did not let it fire auto? I've never had this type problem with any pistol. I'm guessing it's a bad sear?
Thanks,
BR
 

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Yikes!

My last range session with my CZ-52 was exciting.
Well, I guess it was!
I had a couple double fires with my handlloads. Really got my attention!
That it will!

Don't let it get the attention of a BATFE nazi though, or you may wind up in JAIL! Seriously; even an accidental double or chain firing, as far as the court is concerned, makes your firearm a "machine gun" even if it was never intended or modified to function as such.
A couple of people have gone to jail over it that I know of - one woman with an SKS and an Army National Guard Sgt. whose AR-15 "burped" on his buddy while using it.

The BATFE got him for "providing a machine gun to an unauthorized person" or something to that effect, and as far as i know he was sent away for 5 years.
I tried a mag of surplus with no problems. The first round of the next mag of sirplus fired fine, it cycled, fed the next round and FTF with the hammer down. Maybe the sirplus primer is harder and did not let it fire auto? I've never had this type problem with any pistol. I'm guessing it's a bad sear?
Thanks,
BR
Well I can't tell from this distance what the issue is, Faye - but I have never heard of a Czech-O-Matic doubling on anyone, so suspect that you have something seriously wrong going on and would suggest that your bench it until you find out what it is and correct it.

Having a pistol go full auto on you is not only illegal, but highly dangerous as you probably won't be able to control it and the muzzle may wind right over your head and end up blazing away behind you before you really know what's going on. Bad luck for anyone standing back here.

The major reason for "slam" or "chain" firings where more than one round goes off per trigger pull is firing pin inertia, where the bolt stops but the firing pin wants to keep going, and sometimes taps the primer immediately after the round is chambered. SKSs are notorious for that, and if one reloads we have to use special "Milspec" primers that are harder than the normal commercial caps to keep that from happening.

The FP on a CZ-52 though is locked back (or should be) by a little spring loaded bolt or "tumbler" that will only allow the pin to go forward when it is lifted up by a little arm on the sear as the trigger is pulled. After the round fires and the slide recoils back in the frame, the firing pin should fly back where the tumbler should lock it back again until the trigger is pulled again.

It sounds as if your FP is getting loose, suggesting a broken tumbler spring or stuck tumbler perhaps, not catching it or holding it back as it should. Or you may have accumulated crud in the FP channel making the pin stick forward and set off the next round as it chambers it, like an open-bolt firing submachine gun. I've seen a .45 do that and it is spectacular!

Do you know how to disassemble the firing pin system, inspect and clean it all out?

Let us know if you need help - we're here for ya!

UJ in ME
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
doubles

UJ,
I shoot at a rural, private club, that is very safety concious. I want no problems at all with the ATF or our Club BOD . F/A shooting is no my cup of tea.
Since I only had the double fire problem with my handloads and I was not using Milspec hard primers that must be the problem, don't you think? How ever I've been handloading for my CZ for quite sometime. I know I've fired at least 2K rounds of my loads, so something has happened. My firing pin and channel seem fine. I've taken the pin out before and reinstalled it and had no problems. With the pin installed the pin does not protrude the bolt face, the pin will just fall out if the retainer pin is pushed in, the spring is working fine. The only other clue. Now with Surplus ammo I get a hammer down and FTF 1 or 2 times per mag. I bought a case of (yugo?) headstamp22/85, and have shot a couple hundred rounds all ok. I true up the necks with my f/s die and no pin of course.
I have a neighbor that is retired and now a part time gunsmith , but not top notch. He has a shop, more tools than I do, but has no clue waht a cz 52 is. Between your willingness to help educate me and my neighbor I bet we can figure this out.
Thanks,
BR
 

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Reload Issue

On those reloads; make sure that you clean the primer pockets between loadings - I use a little screwdriver but they have all kinds of little gimcracks for that operation if you want to get fancy.

The make sure that the primers are seated at least flush if not a tad below the level of the case head. An improperly seated or "proud" primer is apt to detonate with the impact of the bolt face ramming it in to the chamber, and that will give you a quick "double".

I not only visually inspect my primed cases but run a finger over the head as well, as you can feel a "bumped up" primer.

Crud left in the primer pocket, especially around the edges, is the usual culprit.
I like the hand primer tools so that I can "feel" each primer in and know when it's fully seated.

I've never known anyone to have to resort to milspecs in the COM, but it might not be a bad idea just to be on the safe side.
 
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