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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm sorry if someone has already touched on this topic... but I've heard it is possible to convert (swap out barrels) from 8mm mauser to 30.06.
Before anyone ask, "Why would you want to do this?" My thinking is: my friend reloads and between my shooting pals I think I can get hand loaded ammo with better performance in 30.06 than I can 8mm. I might not be able to shoot as cheaply as I could with surplus 8mm, but I think the trade off come dear season would be worth it.
So, my actual question: Has anyone done this? How is the best way to go about it? What do I need to change/convert other than the barrel, the stock and maybe the bolt?
Thanks!
Nate
 

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.......So, my actual question: Has anyone done this? ....Nate
Yes many have done this. In my opinion far to many. Probably a lot were laboring under the false impression that 8mm handloads would not have as good performance as 30-06 handloads (IMO of course).
 

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So I'm sorry if someone has already touched on this topic... but I've heard it is possible to convert (swap out barrels) from 8mm mauser to 30.06.
Before anyone ask, "Why would you want to do this?" My thinking is: my friend reloads and between my shooting pals I think I can get hand loaded ammo with better performance in 30.06 than I can 8mm. I might not be able to shoot as cheaply as I could with surplus 8mm, but I think the trade off come dear season would be worth it.
So, my actual question: Has anyone done this? How is the best way to go about it? What do I need to change/convert other than the barrel, the stock and maybe the bolt?
Thanks!
Nate
nharms5,

Welcome to the forum... you might get better answers at the Workbench forum on this boards.... How is the 8mm bore? If nice you might want to reconsider.

Its your gun to do with as you please. However, I sure do hope what you are using as the seed for this project is not an all matching k98/mauser. Please tell me its a mismathed Turk moauser or a russian capture k98. Not something your granddaddy left you or some such...

Enjoy your project...
 

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The 30-06 wil not fit in some Mausers magazine. The Turkish Mauser for sure is a no go. The K98K will take a 30-06, but hopefully your gun is not collectible and already sporterized if your planning this. Another alternative is 8MM-06. Have a gunsmith ream the chamber for 30-06 but retain the 8MM bore. Then you just have to neck size 30-06 brass to 8mm and your good to go.
 

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I have built 30.06's off of Mauser actions... yes it is possible, no it isn't hard. But here are some FACTS not opinions to think about.

I handload both 30.06 and 8mm mauser. As far as hunting goes, I find little difference between the two rounds. Only advantage to 30.06 is the larger avaiability/variety of bullets and brass for the handloader.

If the rifle you wish to "convert" is in it's original military configuration, and you wish to keep it that way, barrels are sold with the military taper, but they cost around $200 plus shipping.
Also, if you wish to rebarrel a military 98 somethings will/may have to chage. You will probably need to do some work to the receiver and magazine well so that full 30.06 size cartridges can fit into the magazine. If you wish to mount a scope that is another $50 at least to drill and tap the holes.

Now it is your rifle and you may do as you wish, but I always hate to see original rifles get buggered up.

Now the rifle I built was built from:

New production commercial receiver (already drilled and tapped): $90
New production commercial bolt: $100
FNH Mauser 30.06 barrel: $100
30.06 length triggerguard: $75
Houge pillerbed stock: $100
Timney trigger: free (already had one)

So in total I spent $465 in parts on this rifle $0 in labor since I did the work myself. Add on an extra $100 for the scope, mounts, and bases and I have almost $600 into this rifle.

Now to do what you are talking of doing, let's assume you have a RC mauser which I would estimate at $350..
Prices for work reflect what my smithy charges me...

Rifle: $350
new barrel w/ military contour: $200
Mount barrel, headspace, index iron sights: Upwards of $100 or more
Drill and tap: $50
Receiver work to be able to accept M2 ball ammo: $50
Either a new trigger guard to accept M2 ball: $75 or more
or machining triggerguard to accept M2 ball: $25
New trigger????: $40 or more

The RC rifle and barrel alone would cost you almost as much as the scratch made rifle I put together which is also on par for what a commercial rifle in the chambering you are looking for would cost you. To boot, the second you put that other barrel on or tapped it, you killed the collector value of your rifle.

If you must insist on a Mauser98 action 30.06, there are a couple options:

spend a bunch of money to convert an 8mm rifle
build one from scratch like me
buy a 30.06 mauser that someone else has already put together
find an FN model 50 that was manufactured in 30.06

Attached are photos of my two 98 Mausers in 30.06...

Below is the one I built from a Remington 798 receiver...

103_1922.jpg 103_1921.jpg

Below is a 1909 Argentine Mauser that was buggered up by someone else. I cut up a buggered up stock to make it look 'presentable.'

101_1830.jpg 101_1835.jpg

If you have any more questions, let me know.
 

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+2 maximus slade.
ok for 150 gr bullets. i think i was loading em to 2900 fps
for 06/150's, its 3000-3100 MAX. fps
not that big i difference. now if you go a heaver bullet, say 200gr or above, you can load the 8mm right on the steps of a 06.
some of the turkish 8mm ammo is above 3k fps with a 156> grn bullet.
ALOT of work for 100 fps IMHO.
 

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German wartime 8mm is just as powerful as current 30-06 hunting ammo. Your friend may be willing to handload 8mm for you(should be cheaper than rebarreling, milling the rear of the receiver to fit the 30-06 bullets and dinking with the triggerguard magazine). IMO you may as well go buy an old 30-06 rifle if you are set on the cartridge.

Too many people, in the past, have frowned upon watered down american 8mm ammo. It is only watered down because of the old .318 bores that are still out there and the ammo companies are afraid of a lawsuit if the .323 bullets go down a .318 bore.

Ask solman what handloaded 8mm ammo will do. As he says..."If I handload 8mm you'll have to handload 30-06 to beat me".
 

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Also, If you dont want to reload 8mm but do want full powered 8mm factory ammo, look for privi partizan 8x57 IS (NOT 8mm Mauser). The IS ammo is full powered 8mm ammo for .323 bores. The stuff labeled "8mm Mauser" is the weaker stuff for .318 bores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, so I may have put the cart before the horse on this one. First off, thank you for all your thoughts and suggestions. After doing a little more research, and having a chat with my friend (who said something similar to F84FMechanic; "who the hell told you 30.06 is better than 8mm") I think I'll leave this 8mm alone and just build myself a Rem. 700 or maybe trick out a Savage 110 if I really want a 30.06.
-rcmauser... The bore is ok, it didn't look too hot when I first got it (it had some rust I had to clear out) but it looks just fine now. I don't think this mauser is all that valuable (note the key word 'think', this is coming from the same guy who thought 30.06 was vastly better than 8mm remember). ANYWAY, I purchased this mauser from a friend who got it from a gun show (no family heirloom here). It is a turkish 8mm mauser, reciever and sight serial numbers match (I didn't look at the barrel, but I am still cleaning the cosmolene off it (not a lot, just here and there) and am afraid to take the stock off to look at it. The bolt just has a 4 digit serial number on it where as the receiver is 6 digits (note, the 4 digit bolt number has nothing in common with the receiver or the 4 digit number on the bottom of the magazine plate). The top of the receiver has "TC AS FA" stamped around an Islamic moon and star symbol, and then "ANK ARA" underneath that. Below all of this is "K. KALE 1944" All of these letters, symbols and numbers (the serial numbers that is) are stamped. What makes me think this is not a historically valuable weapon is on the muzzle end of the weapon is a modern inscription "M1938 TURKISH 8MM" "C.A.I. GEORGIA VT". I not a connoisseur of mausers, but modern etching on an older firearm say 'mass import' to me (but, I could be VERY wrong... again).
-Maximus Slade... Will 8X57 IS cause me any problems over shooting 8mm Mauser ammo? When I got this gun all I was thinking was, "oh, cheap deer rifle/nifty project gun"... I didn't put much research or thinking behind it (just $120). Is 8x57 IS kinda like the difference between 308 and 7.62x51? One a civilian commercial round and the other a slightly hotter mass produced military round?
Thanks again for all your info (and for being patient with me).
Nate
 

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If your looking for more power Buy a 8-06 reamer. Use 06 brass and 8mm bullets. The extra case capacity will give you more ways to go powder wise. This is not cost effective. Sunfish
 

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-Maximus Slade... Will 8X57 IS cause me any problems over shooting 8mm Mauser ammo? When I got this gun all I was thinking was, "oh, cheap deer rifle/nifty project gun"... I didn't put much research or thinking behind it (just $120). Is 8x57 IS kinda like the difference between 308 and 7.62x51? One a civilian commercial round and the other a slightly hotter mass produced military round?
Thanks again for all your info (and for being patient with me).
The difference between the two that I mentioned applies ONLY to the Privi Partizan ammunition that I spoke about. So far as I know they are the only ones in the USA that sell full powered 8MM Mauser ammunition. The purpose for the difference in the name is (again this applies ONLY WITH THIS MANUFACTERER) that one is full powered the other is not. That being said, if you see a box of Winchester or Remington ammo that is labeled 8x57 JS or IS, I could not tell you if it is full powered or not, you would have to ask the manufacterer.

As for shooting the full powered stuff in your Turk, first off, if you ever have a question about about whether your rifle will hold up, take it to a compitent gunsmith for inspection. What I can tell you though is that the rifle is designed to fire full powered ammunition. So IF your rifle is sound, then it should fire the ammo just fine.

As to the use of your rifle as a project rifle. Yes, your Turk is a 'mass import' as you call it, but that is not to say that it has no value. To a collector it may be worth between $150 to $200 (just an estimate). That value does not negate the fact that there would be a fair amount of cost in turning it into a pure hunting rifle. If that is what you choose to do, keep one thing in mind. Your rifle is a Turk, which means the barrel has small ring mauser threads. Do not be confused by the fact that the receiver has a large ring diameter.
 

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For cheap plinking ammo, this should work. I believe Aimsurplus is a board sponser also.
You will have to clean your gun afterwards because it is corrosive. It will take anther two minutes
or so.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/catalog.aspx?groupid=42

Since you mentioned deer season was coming, I will point out that while American 8mm isnt
as hot as the European stuff, I havnt heard any complaints from the Kansas Whitetails I shot in
with the 8mm the past.
 

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nharms5,

A century arms import. Sounds like some range hounds I have. The several displayed in the cabinet have banged some of the stiffest hot Turk ammo (no pun.... er.... wait....nevermind). The actions are smooth as butter. You have been presented with several great options. If you do choose build off this action, it should work.

But I do like their looks in military dress...
 

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I reload my 8mm from converted 30-06 brass that I did in a conversion die; no big deal. I load for 3 of my 8mm's and I have told of the accuracy of this in other threads long ago; in a word-outstanding accuracy. I made my own peep site from a spare Turk rear sight so as to keep the original intact. I easily did an 80 yd headshot on a deer. I vote with the others, don't bother w/ the project. Reloading is easy. I've had good look w/ H380 & IMR 4064.
 

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As the others have mentioned, you shouldn't have any trouble using just about any ammo in a '44 KALE rifle. For hunting, you'll probably want soft points and there are several factory SP loads available that will work. I would get a box of each and see what performs best for you. Or, you could cut to the chase and work up some reloads that are tailored to your rifle.

The Turk Mausers are kind of the red-headed step-children. Many of them were completely abused and those examples make a bad name for the rest. If you have one that's even in "good" condition, it's a very capable rifle. I have an M38 that was rebuilt from a Czech 98 in 1942. Using Yugoslavian M75 surplus ammo, it will shoot MOA or better at 100 yards. This rifle has a dark, mildly pitted bore that's seen more than it's share of use, but still shoots as well, or better than many factory new hunting rifles sold today. I paid $75 for it, about six years ago. Nowadays, as Maximus stated, they sell in the $150-$200 range. So, as far as "value" goes, I think they're a good investment and they do have some history. They're worth far more as a tool than what the market is showing, IMO.

Group shot at 100 yards with my M38, using Yugo M75 ammo (the flyer is from the gun sliding off the bag as I pulled the trigger. The other four....well, you get the picture):



Regards,

John
 

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Earlier this deer season, my sporterized M98 8x57 using handloaded 150 gr Speer bullets over 4064 powder dropped a 7 pt buck @ 100 paces which yielded 90 #s of freezer ready venison. Why convert your rifle? I have collected Tx deer with 243-7x57-8x57-308 & 30-06 and most dropped in their tracks as this latest one did. Next morning, same rifle/load collected a feral hog, almost completely severing his head with a neck shot.
 
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