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Here's a few more pictures I took of another replacement 'cylinder stop bolt' for the new line revolver. Like I said before, this is for the .41 and the dimensions for smaller revolvers will probably be different. I know that .38's and .41's shared the same frame, therefore same parts. If you wanted to make this part, I can provide further measurements.

buckyjr
Buckyjr, did you also order this from Numrich? There is an earlier version of the new line called the 1st model that uses a Colt SAA type cylinder bolt, I was wondering what type they carried. I would like to get one of these guns but want spare parts just in case.

Thanks
 

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So I just got one, a second model. It's extremely clean. I took apart to give it a good cleaning and try to fix an issue with binding in the timing. It looked like the bolt edge was hitting the case heads (I had spent casing loaded to dry fire it).

It still seams to bind so my question is what do the hands on these guins look like? Is there a "top" and "bottom" hand like a Colt SAA, two steps or levels? Mine has two but I have seen a sketch where it appears to just have one level.
 

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I know what is going on, my hand has two levels and due to the bottom hand the top hand protudes too far into the frame and contacts the case heads causing binding. Without any cases loaded the action functions fine.
 

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Here's some pics. I also have the issue of the bolt pickup being late, but my main issues were the bolt outer edge hitting cases which I fixed, but I also noticed the top hand contacts the cases as well making the final indexing and cocking difficult when cases are loaded.



 

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I noticed the top edge of the second step on the bolt was contacting case heads so I simply filed the upper corner off. It was hitting hard enough to make small marks on the cases edges. I also recut the hand back so it doesn't stick out the hand slot into the frame so far. In doing this the hand now turns the cylinder a little later so there is no more bolt hangup. The hand now doesn't contact case heads either. Much smoother. There is still a little hook on the sear ledge that makes trigger pull quite hard, I'll need to look at that.

As for the mainspring I sketched it out and took measurements. We work with alot of steel at my work including what I believe are a few forms of spring steel. I'll ask this week, I have also read up on tempering steel at home. If I can make one I'll make a couple so I have extras, and maybe even some to sell if it's easy enough. I am also getting one in nickel I'll post photos of.

 

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I ended up getting some spring steel from my work. It's dimensions are a slightly different at 0.311" wide x 0.043" thick while the original measures 0.240" wide x 0.057" thick.

I bent up the new one and tapered the end where it fits into the frame, like the original. I tried the action and it works quite well, I was figuring I would need to put a stiffer temper in the spring as the original is quite hard and yielded a heavy SA cock and trigger pull. I'm not sure if this spring is too light and will fail to ignite primers though.





Note how it has to go around the screw lug, hence the funny shape.

 
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