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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

In this moment I’m working on an old Colt (“new line”) but something is missing in the mechanism!






The cylinder is not revolving when I activate the hammer, so maybe the missing part/s is a spring or something like that. - Can anyone of you tell me what I need, or have any of you an exploded drawing of the model?

Swift
 

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This may help some:

Full patent here.
It shows the Cloverleaf House Pistol, which has a slightly different design of the cylinder lock than the New Line, but is the closest diagram I've ever been able to find. The New Line cylinder lock is at the rear of the cylinder rather than on the circumference:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Berkley.

I can imagine me that the arm as turns the cylinder (red arrow) is spring influenced in the arrows direction. But the spring is missing on my Colt – how did it look?



And the small part that guides and locks the cylinder in the right firing position (yellow arrow) is also missing. I assume it’s impossible to find that kind of parts today – or?

So – is it possible to make some Macro pictures of these two missing parts. Then I’ll try to make them myself!

Swift
 

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The part that rotates the cylinder is clled the hand. The part that locks it in line with teh barrel when it has been rotated on chamber's worth is called the bolt. it does NOT guide the cylinder, only locks it in place.

Don't know about the hand spring on the New Line.

Surprisingly enough, there are a lot of parts around for older Colts (and S&Ws) in places like Numrich/e-gun parts. Doing a little looking is likely to pay dividends.
 

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Back when pre 1900/obsolete caliber guns could be got off paper i would pick these old pocket pistols up very cheap at gun shows as projects, most times it was the hand or spring yhat was the problem and i would build it up with weld or make a new one.
There was only one that ever beat me as the ratchet? on the back of the cylinder was cactus. i even converted a few to .32 short c/fire. ahh the good old days.
chester.
 

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My apologies, I found another patent that has the diagram you need. I have never had any luck finding internal parts for the New Line. My only suggestion would be to get similar parts for the Colt Lightning from Dixie Gun Works, and try to modify them to fit. Here are the Lightning parts shown with the New Line patent diagram for comparison:

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
 

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Wow, great info and pictures everyone. I took mine apart last night, tried taking pictures, not a one came out clear.........then the batteries died..........for what they are worth, here is the best of them ( I even used a tripod - can't figure out this camera thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for all the information.

I can now begin to form me a picture of how the pieces work, and how it´s possible for me to produce them.

My problem is that I live in Denmark, so although the parts is available in America, I can´t get them shipped to Denmark.

I´ll keep you informed!

Swift
 

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Swift, it's a nice little .22 new line you've got there. It seems to be missing a hand spring (as previously noted). I've got a .41 new line here, with a complete inner mechanism. Here's a picture of the part you need.
I think all the new lines have similar parts, they just might be a little smaller on a .22. You should be able to make your own from some blued spring steel. Once you've made a desired crescent shape, just use your pliers to make 'ears' at the ends of the piece, and you're done! The spring on this revolver gauges at .025" or .06mm thick. The one on the table is a replacement from numrich (little crusted, she is), they sent one for me to Canada! Good luck!!

buckyjr
 

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new line cylinder stop bolt



Here's a few more pictures I took of another replacement 'cylinder stop bolt' for the new line revolver. Like I said before, this is for the .41 and the dimensions for smaller revolvers will probably be different. I know that .38's and .41's shared the same frame, therefore same parts. If you wanted to make this part, I can provide further measurements.

buckyjr
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks you buckyjr!

I have no problem by making the spring, and it works fine!



The angel of milling groove for the handsprings (on this model) tells me that the springs place is above the screw.

The spring was easy to make, but the “Cylinder stop bolt” looks a bit more difficult. I would be very grateful if I could have some measurements on this part.

Swift
 

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View attachment 303017 View attachment 303016 View attachment 303015 View attachment 303014 View attachment 303013 View attachment 303012

Here's a few more pictures I took of another replacement 'cylinder stop bolt' for the new line revolver. Like I said before, this is for the .41 and the dimensions for smaller revolvers will probably be different. I know that .38's and .41's shared the same frame, therefore same parts. If you wanted to make this part, I can provide further measurements.

buckyjr
Buckyjr, did you also order this from Numrich? There is an earlier version of the new line called the 1st model that uses a Colt SAA type cylinder bolt, I was wondering what type they carried. I would like to get one of these guns but want spare parts just in case.

Thanks
 

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Yes, the part came from Numrich. They just reconfigured their website, and it doesn't specify which size the part you're ordering is. Might be a good idea to call them. It seems the 38 and 41 have a larger piece, and the 32, 30 and 22 share the smaller size.
 

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The part was intended for a .41 new police revolver, but I haven't got around to installing it. Last time I had a look, it seemed this part was a little small for it. Perhaps it is for the smaller frame. I want to buy a few more from Numrich, it would be nice if they listed this stuff by calibre... When I ordered 2 hand springs, they were both different in width, but they both fit in the 41 frame. It looks like a rainy day tomorrow, I will check..
 

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Hey Dale2008, which model are you working on? You should be able just to put the trigger back in by sliding it in the frame and bolting up the trigger screw. I've only taken it out when all the other components were out of the frame. Whatever you do don't force anything, and move the hammer back a little to help engage the sear. Hope this helps.
 
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