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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering about methods used by you guys on the Arisaka stocks.

Can't remember the site off the top of my head, but one recommendation was to lightly clean the stock with a non-ionic detergent in distilled H20, then lightly wipe down with mineral spirits. Didn't mention anything about applying a protective coating but advised against applying oils, etc.

I know nothing of the qualities of urushi - is this safe/wise? I don't want to accidentally ruin an otherwise original finish. Best to leave well enough alone?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, but I still wash the car when it's dirty!! ;) Well, I've got MROJ, Early Arisaka's, JROWWII, and Don & Doss's new book. But my brain really has issues now with keeping details and stuff in memory from book reading. Always been a problem, plagued me in school. I don't remember reading anything about this topic in any if the books (but I think you're tellin' me there's something along these lines in one of them??)......
 

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Yeah, but I still wash the car when it's dirty!! ;) Well, I've got MROJ, Early Arisaka's, JROWWII, and Don & Doss's new book. But my brain really has issues now with keeping details and stuff in memory from book reading. Always been a problem, plagued me in school. I don't remember reading anything about this topic in any if the books (but I think you're tellin' me there's something along these lines in one of them??)......
No, not really, just kinda seemed like you needed something to do...
 

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Forget the distilled water, no need. A very dilute solution of any kind of soap will not hurt an Urushi finish. The late series have very little finish, but a quick wipe won't hurt them either.

A refreshment with a good furniture oil or wax won't do any harm, beyond that just leave it alone.

A'dogs wipes his with a paper towel; which is ok for the nice stuff he buys!
 

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A'dogs wipes his with a paper towel; which is ok for the nice stuff he buys!
No swapping sights for me & looking for that matching (with who knows what inspection marks) dust cover. I can't imagine anything dumber that bragging to someone about your "matching" rifle with it's dust cover & it has the wrong inspection marks. That would warrant a "bitch slap" ;)
 

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Yep,
that could happen.

I have a good friend who wants to look for matching T14 mags and matching dustcovers; I tell him to get a life.

It ain't likely to happen in this life. Waaay too many marking variables!!!!!!! Kinda like mataching a bolt too.

If you find a mataching whatever, cherish it; but don't 'waste time' looking for the missing pice, JMHO. Odds have to be a google to one.
 

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Any wood soap and warm water with a very soft brush and a tooth brush for the small places. they are a weapon of war so they arent all that delicate a little water and some oiling wont hurt them .Just make sure they're clean and dry when your done. then a light oil coat and wal aah .anything you'd do to your hunting guns is ok for the old ones too.I like linseed oil and distilled water on the late war ones but thats just me.
 

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Distilled water

Distilled water??? Why?

Perhaps the water is really bad elsewhere?
 

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If dave lives in the country, like me, and uses well water, there is all kinds of minerals in it. Distilled or bottled water would be much better.
 

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Now, on the rarest of circumstances, sometimes, match ups do happen. My 14.9 date T-14 came with the original matching mag. Rampage, had the correct variation with the numbers & marks that place it very - very close to the the same time period. Still not a fully matching 2 mag rig but about as close as you can get.
 

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I think he meant distalled sprits. That why his stocks have that warm tone to the finish. :D
 

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Now, on the rarest of circumstances, sometimes, match ups do happen. My 14.9 date T-14 came with the original matching mag. Rampage, had the correct variation with the numbers & marks that place it very - very close to the the same time period. Still not a fully matching 2 mag rig but about as close as you can get.

I guess matching up a magazine that is PRETTY CLOSE is better than one that has the wrong inspection marks that rates a BITCH slappin!! :) :)

I guess this rates just an "ANNOYING NAG slappin'"!! :) :)
 

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I guess matching up a magazine that is PRETTY CLOSE is better than one that has the wrong inspection marks that rates a BITCH slappin!!
To have just the number matched up & to get caught, here, trying to pass it off as matching, Whew, I wouldn't want to be mentioned here for doing that. Now an annoyed bitch slap, that could be interesting.
 

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Better? Why? Distilled water, that is?
 

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Exactly it, Nag1, My well has too many minerals and such ,tastes great and is heathy,but I like the consistancy of distilled water for projects, and the added , oh .98 cents a gallon seems a luxuray I can afford..I wonder tho if one couldnt use flax oil or hemp oil on riflestocks and furniture...I only use distilled spirits when Im reloading for people that pick on me, makes my hand steadier and helkps with all that math ..."hic, whats a grain or 10 between friendsh?, if'n 30 is good 90 should be 3 timessh as good..."
 

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Now, distilled SPIRITS is one thing; wasting up your hard earned $$ for distilled water to WASH in is something else.
 

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I used Forbee's Lemon oil on my stocks for years. It cleans fairly well without causing much harm but does not seem to protect for long. Howard's Feed and Wax is the best stuff I have tried to make a stock look nice and healthy. It is just wax and orange oil. Highly recommended on some of the other forums.
 

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...I completely agree Mike!
Howard Feed-N-Wax is a blend of beeswax, carnuba wax and orange oil and an excelllent choice...

I "hand rub" it "briskly" with the palm until is actually gets "warm" on my Enfields (8), Type 99 Nagoya, K98's (2), M1 Garand and my 1800's Winchesters (5).

Once dried and lightly buffed, it leaves a very clean, protected, satin finish to all of the various rifle "furniture". It works great on bayonet wood also.
all the best
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, that's my guess - just to cut down on the mineral content. Not sure it'd make much of a difference when you're not using a lot of water. The thing I was reading might have been really geared towards much older weapons with assumed more "delicate" finsihes.

Just the last thing I'd want to do is apply anything and watch the original finish disappear on me!! Thanks for all the advice.
 
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