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Have you given your rifle a thorough cleaning to remove any copper/leading that may have accumulated? Although a barrel may appear worn it sometimes can be acceptably accurate with the right load. If so, and remembering the limitations of the small ring action, good loads can be found using a 142 grain HPBT Sierra projectile, Lapua cases, either CCI BR-2 or WLR primers, and a worked up load of H4831SC powder. You can seat the bullet out pretty far on most surplus swedes,(including the CG) and still not touch the lands,so pick a spot and start from there. I have had very good results with loads around the 2700 fps range,all well under the recommended book max. Hope this helps. Jim
 

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Have you given your rifle a thorough cleaning to remove any copper/leading that may have accumulated? Although a barrel may appear worn it sometimes can be acceptably accurate with the right load. If so, and remembering the limitations of the small ring action, good loads can be found using a 142 grain HPBT Sierra projectile, Lapua cases, either CCI BR-2 or WLR primers, and a worked up load of H4831SC powder. You can seat the bullet out pretty far on most surplus swedes,(including the CG) and still not touch the lands,so pick a spot and start from there. I have had very good results with loads around the 2700 fps range,all well under the recommended book max. Hope this helps. Jim
Very true. I use 139 or 140-gr match bullet (Hornady, Lapua, Nostler, Sierra) and Lapua cases with IMR 4831 at 2635 fps in M96. Mild recoil and quite accurate. My Soderin rear sight has the yellow markings for 2650 fps, and while it's dead on at settings of 100, 300, and 500m, I must set it at 225 to be on at 200m. Any idea why? I shoot at an old silhouette range and am pretty sure the distances have been measured accurately.
 

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Is the rifle left hand shooter friendly?

Are the Lothar Walther 6.5x55 M96 barrels going to be the same diameter as the CG63 barrles?

Would the barrel be "home gunsmith" friendly? Would you be able to swap the barrel out with a barrel vise like the ones from Midway or would there be some gunsmithing work required to get to barrel installed?

This has been a very interesting thread to me as I had wanted to build a CG63 copy using some spare parts and such from a bubba'd M/94 and a quality barrel blank. Home gunsmith friendly kind of depends on the gunsmith and his shop. A friend "in the business" often comes by my "little home shop of horrors" to use the lathe, mill, chambering reamers and such. I would strongly recommend a very good barrel vise and a better action wrench. The first step is removing the old barrel and many are tight, real tight. This is where inexperience or maybe poor tooling can cause some troubles that are hard or impossible to fix. If it ain't going to work, the best thing that can happen is the barrel slips in the barrel vise. The worst is that you twist or "squash" the front receiver ring a bit. You can eliminate the threat of damaging your receiver by using a hacksaw or parting tool to create a relief cut in the old barrel at the front receiver ring. That, and a day or two of Kroil soaking in the threads and there should be no chance of damaging your receiver. The workbench forum is a good place to go for this kind of info.

As far as "left hand friendly", my spare CG63 stock has a cheek piece on the right and left side.

 

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I always thought the CG-63 was designed for more like 300 to 600 meter shooting. My far less expensive 1922 FSR and 1943 Husqvarna FSR, both with Soderin diopters and Elit fronts shoot 1MOA pretty darned consistently for me at 100 yards. Lets see some 200 and 300 yard groups with these CG-63 rifles. Simply put, an M96 will shoot tight groups at only 100 yards.
 

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I'm no marksman. Those are 10" targets at 100 yds. I'm sure in the right hands, it could do wonders.


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And it does. The most difficult part is finding the perfect target for your globe. I find that I shot different groups from the same rifle depending on what size target I put up at 100m. One way or another - diopters are very hard to beat, I mean, I outshoot friends with their modern scoped rifles routinely with my FSR and CG-xx rifles. if not for a CWD around here, I would be hunting (head shots) deer with a diopter sights too, its just difficult to go for vitals with diopter as there are no painted 8" circles on the white tail :)
 

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And it does. The most difficult part is finding the perfect target for your globe. I find that I shot different groups from the same rifle depending on what size target I put up at 100m. One way or another - diopters are very hard to beat, I mean, I outshoot friends with their modern scoped rifles routinely with my FSR and CG-xx rifles. if not for a CWD around here, I would be hunting (head shots) deer with a diopter sights too, its just difficult to go for vitals with diopter as there are no painted 8" circles on the white tail :)
I thought you guys might be interested in another target that I killed yesterday. This was at 51 yards, using both hand loads and PPU factory. The PPU factory loads are on top. As you can see, the PPU ammo shoots very well.
 

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Sorry, forgot. Landtoy80, if you find a device like this it makes it much easier to reload when lefthanded http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?183024-Bolt-attachment-for-lefthanded!!. Since I wrote that thread I actually found an example of the device.......
Thank you for your research and for sharing it. I read through some other posts of yours that were also very helpful. A 1943 Husqvarna M96 had me stumped on a few points that the M96 Husqvarna thread helped clear up.
 
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