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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My K98k bolt, sans extractor, is still stuck because I rotated the collar too far to the right ( beyond 3 O'clock) so that the ears (where the gap is) went out of view. So far no amount of probing with a thin wire has been successful in grasping or hooking any part of that collar so as to allow me to have a second chance at aligning the ears to a proper groove. I cannot SEE the ears anymore. Any ideas as to how to rotate the collar counterclockwise (looking into receiver toward the front sight)? There is nothing to push with a wire. I might be able to nick the collar to get a pushing point, but I'd ruin it. Last night I ordered a used original collar as a replacement. To remove the bolt does the extractor collar have to be straight up (high noon) or 90 degrees to the right? Mine seems to be > 90 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The collar should be 90 degrees to the right to remove the bolt - have you removed the magazine floor plate to see if you can get to it that way
No. I have on order a stripped down bolt so that I can study it from all angles to determine the best way to bend a piano wire probe to get at the collar lips. The collar is an original to the rifle (1944) and is not sheet metal. I ordered a replacement collar sold as original, but when it arrived it was sheet metal with those curling lips. So I shelled out big money and have an actual original WWII collar on the way. It matches what I have to shift. I am afraid I will have to nick what is stuck so I can push it with a chisel.
 

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I’m not quite sure what you’re trying to describe. It sounds like you inserted the bolt into the rifle without the extractor attached - but what “collar” are you talking about?

Here are the parts of the K98k bolt:

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It sounds like you’re describing the forward lugs on the bolt body…but they don’t “rotate” - they’re fixed to the body itself.

Photos of what you’re dealing with might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m not quite sure what you’re trying to describe. It sounds like you inserted the bolt into the rifle without the extractor attached - but what “collar” are you talking about?

Here are the parts of the K98k bolt:

View attachment 4087167

It sounds like you’re describing he forward lugs on the bolt body…but they don’t “rotate” - they’re fixed to the body itself.

Photos of what you’re dealing with might help.
I’m not quite sure what you’re trying to describe. It sounds like you inserted the bolt into the rifle without the extractor attached - but what “collar” are you talking about?

Here are the parts of the K98k bolt:

View attachment 4087167

It sounds like you’re describing he forward lugs on the bolt body…but they don’t “rotate” - they’re fixed to the body itself.

Photos of what you’re dealing with might help.
On part 6, between the two venting holes, is the extractor collar. For the purpose of checking head space, I removed the firing pin and spring etc and the extractor. Yes, I put in the bolt with the extractor off. Then when trying to line up the ears of the collar to the right at 3 O'Clock position the ears rotated more to the right (clockwise) and disappeared from view. Now I have not been able to grasp any part of the collar to rotate it to the left. The ears are in the bottom slot of the receiver where the rear safety lug fits when the bolt is normally closed.
 

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@hicksjim7 - Okay, I see what you’re talking about now.

Maybe it’s too early and I haven’t had enough coffee, but I don’t see how what you’re describing is even possible. In order to get the “ear” from the collar into that bottom slot, it has to make it past the lip at the front of the receiver channel (arrow):

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Camera accessory Rim


If it’s made it that far, then it won’t even engage the bottom slot.

Is it possible the collar ear is hitting that front end of the channel? How far rearward can you get the bolt before everything is “stuck”? Here’s about where the collar would hit the forward end of the receiver channel:
Air gun Trigger Office equipment Shotgun Revolver


As @bokila suggested, you should get pretty good access from the magazine

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Good luck! I’m looking forward to hearing how you gets this resolved - it's a great chance to learn something new!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@hicksjim7 - Okay, I see what you’re talking about now.

Maybe it’s too early and I haven’t had enough coffee, but I don’t see how what you’re describing is even possible. In order to get the “ear” from the collar into that bottom slot, it has to make it past the lip at the front of the receiver channel (arrow):

View attachment 4087173

If it’s made it that far, then it won’t even engage the bottom slot.

Is it possible the collar ear is hitting that front end of the channel? How far rearward can you get the bolt before everything is “stuck”? Here’s about where the collar would hit the forward end of the receiver channel:
View attachment 4087176

As @bokila suggested, you should get pretty good access from the magazine

View attachment 4087175

Good luck! I’m looking forward to hearing how you gets this resolved - it's a great chance to learn something new!
@hicksjim7 - Okay, I see what you’re talking about now.

Maybe it’s too early and I haven’t had enough coffee, but I don’t see how what you’re describing is even possible. In order to get the “ear” from the collar into that bottom slot, it has to make it past the lip at the front of the receiver channel (arrow):

View attachment 4087173

If it’s made it that far, then it won’t even engage the bottom slot.

Is it possible the collar ear is hitting that front end of the channel? How far rearward can you get the bolt before everything is “stuck”? Here’s about where the collar would hit the forward end of the receiver channel:
View attachment 4087176

As @bokila suggested, you should get pretty good access from the magazine

View attachment 4087175

Good luck! I’m looking forward to hearing how you gets this resolved - it's a great chance to learn something new!
On your second photo from the top I can see the two forward lugs. When I put the bolt in without the collar the bolt would get no further in than about the middle of those lugs. Pulling it back, it was still stuck; and the bolt had not slid backwards more than about half the width of the collar. And, again, I can't see the opposing ears of that collar.
I'm going out to lunch and get some groceries. Out of beer. I won't be doing anything rash with this dilemma.
 

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We're seeing some amateur "advice" here: there are more than 7 parts to a 98's bolt assy.
Have to suggest taking this mess to a qualified gunsmith before any more damage is done. This is good to hear:
I won't be doing anything rash with this dilemma.
 

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More good news.
 

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Once this is resolved, I for one would be interested in knowing what causes the problem and how to prevent it.

Alrhough I headspaced my Swedish Mauser 20+ years ago without issues, I have two other Mausers I need to check the headspace on and I wouldn’t want this to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Once this is resolved, I for one would be interested in knowing what causes the problem and how to prevent it.

Alrhough I headspaced my Swedish Mauser 20+ years ago without issues, I have two other Mausers I need to check the headspace on and I wouldn’t want this to happen.
It will be sometime after the 24th before I can let anyone know what the gunsmith says. I have two ways to resolve this if he doesn't want to take on the job and risk. One is to nick the edge of the collar at the 2 O'Clock position and try to rotate the collar. The other is to use a low strength drop of Loctite on a cleaned part of the collar and glue on a steel knob to push on. Then afterward hook a little hex wrench on it and pop the knob off. Well, that could lead to glue running into the groove. The gunsmith might tap the action and see if anything moves. We'll have to wait to hear from the guy in Tucker.
 

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Here’s an idea - however, I’ve had 3 coffee Americanos today so I might not be thinking clearly - if you take a pencil with a nice soft eraser and reach up through the magazine well, can you get enough grip or friction to rotate the collar?

I figure that at worse you’ll get some smudging on the collar or eraser-debris in the action. When this is all over you may need to buy another collar anyway.
 

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Here's something you could try, take a rare earth magnet (one of the small ones) and put it on a punch. Take the other end and put it on the collar and try rotating. It might have enough magnetic stick to it to get it to turn. You could even super glue it to the punch to keep it from potentially sliding off of the punch. It could also be a total failure but you wouldn't damage anything and the cost would be very low. Another thing to try is posting it on the workbench forum. There's a lot of ingenious people on there and you might be surprised what solutions they might have. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here’s an idea - however, I’ve had 3 coffee Americanos today so I might not be thinking clearly - if you take a pencil with a nice soft eraser and reach up through the magazine well, can you get enough grip or friction to rotate the collar?

I figure that at worse you’ll get some smudging on the collar or eraser-debris in the action. When this is all over you may need to buy another collar anyway.
Well,, before I would try that I'd have to determine if the collar is visible under the well. It is visible now in the chamber as viewed under the bridge. I had not thought to use an eraser. But the angle from under the bridge as viewed horizontally into the chamber wouldn't do. I have a stopco pencil wirth a decent unhardened eracer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well,, before I would try that I'd have to determine if the collar is visible under the well. It is visible now in the chamber as viewed under the bridge. I had not thought to use an eraser. But the angle from under the bridge as viewed horizontally into the chamber wouldn't do. I have a stopco pencil wirth a decent unhardened eraser... Oh hecko, What was I thinking? The bolt it too far back to be visible through the well, and there is hardly room to get a glimpse under the bridge to do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Success this morning. I used a long tapered X-Acto blade under the right side of the bridge and swung the collar to the left so I could see both sides of the ears equally spaced. My hemostat was too clumsy and thick to grasp the ears, but a long thin tweezer was all it took to squeeze the ears together and close the bolt. Now all that is necessary to remove the bolt is to lasso the ears with a loop of floss, tuck the string under the bridge and pull the bolt and collar simultaneously..
 
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