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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My boss at work just gave me what appears to be a spainish mauser 98 (other then the serial number it is only marked with a faces and rod). Unfortunatley the bolt is straigt and Id like to bend it. I can pay my boss (a gunsmith) about $60 or I can do it myself.

Also, does anyone know what rear sight will allow me to still use the stripper clip guide? I am looking at one of the williams FP rear sights and a brass bead front with a hood on it.

Also, has anyone had experiance with ER Shaw pre threaded and chambered barrels? My boss also recomended them for me to work with as they are about 1/2 the price of a comprable barrel from a higher end maker and shoot well enough for a hunting rifle.

Als, before I forget, what is a good inletted wood stock for a mauser 98? Ive found a couple on numrichs or brownells, but am having trouble deciding.
 

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Richards Microfit Gunstocks. You can get a nice unfinished stock so your choice of finish. Inletting is very clean, with the mauser I don't think you would even have much to clean up in the inletting dept. With the Mosin I only had minimal amount to do. Also check there seconds and ones they have made that people didn't buy.(about half price of regular ordered ones.)

Falm16: Wouldn't be much of a workbench forum if he bought one from Wal Mart now would it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Richards Microfit Gunstocks. You can get a nice unfinished stock so your choice of finish. Inletting is very clean, with the mauser I don't think you would even have much to clean up in the inletting dept. With the Mosin I only had minimal amount to do. Also check there seconds and ones they have made that people didn't buy.(about half price of regular ordered ones.)

Falm16: Wouldn't be much of a workbench forum if he bought one from Wal Mart now would it?
Thank you. Ill definatley look into that. I have budgeted about $160 for the stock, but that was based around paying $65 for the action (now that its free that section of the budget can go up).
i don't know, i get the feeling he could fix one from walmart, too.
Yes, but an old mauser has that classy old world feel, and why the hell not? I can build this just for a wee bit less then a brand new rem 700 set up the same way too.
You should not have any trouble using stripper clips with a rear sight.

When you put a scope on it, then you can forget about stripper clips.
Ok. Thank you, thats certainly good to know. I was worried that the rear sight would take up so much room on the back end that I couldnt use the guide. though, im tempted to flip a coin and decide on scope vs. irons and 8mm vs. 30-06.
 

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Please post your results with the Shaw barrel, I am curious about this company and like their pricing. As far as the sights, maybe consider the "fire sight" fiber optic type, they work very well on pistols and should help as your eyes get older.
Spanish mauser.....originally in 7mm? Why not stay in that caliber if the rifle is so chambered? You certainly have options (what ammo is most available to you?) but, there is most assuredly nothing lacking in the 7mm.

What do you intend for a finish on this gun? Re-blue or some other? This rifle would make either a cool "old school" sporter or a much less than ordinary "tactical" (beginning to hate that word) precision rifle.
Sounds like a fun project, good luck.
 

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I have found that forging the bolt handle down results in a bolt that is shorter than I like for reliable functioning. Cutting and TIG welding a new bolt handle is about as easy and gives a superior result in my opinion.
 

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See Jim R The Boltman, a Gunboards Sponsor, for a mauser bolt. http://www.mosinnagant.net/Boltman/Boltman.html

$35. He does a very nice job, and for a sporter I recomment the low scope job. You will have to file a cut in the receiver side to get the bolt in the proper location to clear the scope and lock. Whether or not you scope your rifle, if you ever sell it chamces are near 100% that the new owner will want to, and a low scope bolt handle will raise its value and look better on it.

Those pre chambered barrels are usually only rough reamed and need a finish reaming.

Like Gremlin I've had very good results with Richards semi-inletted stocks. Even a fully inletted stock will probably need work as Mausers varied some and chances are the barrel channel wont match yours anyway. Richards has a 99% inlet for large ring military mausers and a choice of barrel contours.

Good luck. Your bank account will need it. It's strictly your personal decision but I no longer find the "classy feel" worth the inevitable annoyances of a military conversion and the higher cost relative to a modern sporter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Please post your results with the Shaw barrel, I am curious about this company and like their pricing. As far as the sights, maybe consider the "fire sight" fiber optic type, they work very well on pistols and should help as your eyes get older.
Spanish mauser.....originally in 7mm? Why not stay in that caliber if the rifle is so chambered? You certainly have options (what ammo is most available to you?) but, there is most assuredly nothing lacking in the 7mm.

What do you intend for a finish on this gun? Re-blue or some other? This rifle would make either a cool "old school" sporter or a much less than ordinary "tactical" (beginning to hate that word) precision rifle.
Sounds like a fun project, good luck.
It does not have a barrel on it, and it is also marked "7.92mm" on the reciver. other then that and the guardia civil crest and a serial number (390x) there are no markings. The bluing is about 98% on the action body, but the bottom metal is matching, but pretty well worn (probably 65%). I will rust blue the bottom metal and the rest (easier to do with few tools and all that) and pay to have the barrel blued.

Also, thanks, I hopefully will do this for under $400. I like the whole old world feel, and this will certainly be a better brush hunting gun then my 30-06. Unless I dont wind up with a 20 in tube...
I have found that forging the bolt handle down results in a bolt that is shorter than I like for reliable functioning. Cutting and TIG welding a new bolt handle is about as easy and gives a superior result in my opinion.
Thank you for the heads up. I was planning on cutting 2/3 of the way through, bending it and making a butter knife style handle, but considering how cheap boltman does it I may go that way.
See Jim R The Boltman, a Gunboards Sponsor, for a mauser bolt. http://www.mosinnagant.net/Boltman/Boltman.html

$35. He does a very nice job, and for a sporter I recomment the low scope job. You will have to file a cut in the receiver side to get the bolt in the proper location to clear the scope and lock. Whether or not you scope your rifle, if you ever sell it chamces are near 100% that the new owner will want to, and a low scope bolt handle will raise its value and look better on it.

Those pre chambered barrels are usually only rough reamed and need a finish reaming.

Like Gremlin I've had very good results with Richards semi-inletted stocks. Even a fully inletted stock will probably need work as Mausers varied some and chances are the barrel channel wont match yours anyway. Richards has a 99% inlet for large ring military mausers and a choice of barrel contours.

Good luck. Your bank account will need it. It's strictly your personal decision but I no longer find the "classy feel" worth the inevitable annoyances of a military conversion and the higher cost relative to a modern sporter.
Defintatley good to know. I plan on using a military saftey, so a low scope seems to be a moot point. Also, I understand it wont be plug and play with a barrel, but I work for a gunsmith, so if I bugger it up he will certainly help me out. I was planning on using the ER shaw varmint contour and cutting it back to 20in. I know its a heavy rifle but the weight will help it balance and shoot better off hand.

And I totally understand the cost issues, but as if push comes to shove I can do all the work (bluing, stocking finishing etc) other then barreling and bolt bending I can keep the cost down. Plus its way more fun to do things the hard way sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, so I just soaked the bolt in hot vinegar to take off the shine and have begun to rust-blue the bottom metal (and action, as it seems that the rust bluing is a dark grey, not blue, and I want everything to match, I may leave the bolt straight for the time being, put everything togther see how I like it and then decide if I will bend it or not). Will definatley post pics when Im done. I should get the barrel soon, I just emailed ER Shaw.
 

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Please post your results with the Shaw barrel, I am curious about this company and like their pricing. As far as the sights, maybe consider the "fire sight" fiber optic type, they work very well on pistols and should help as your eyes get older.
Spanish mauser.....originally in 7mm? Why not stay in that caliber if the rifle is so chambered? You certainly have options (what ammo is most available to you?) but, there is most assuredly nothing lacking in the 7mm.

What do you intend for a finish on this gun? Re-blue or some other? This rifle would make either a cool "old school" sporter or a much less than ordinary "tactical" (beginning to hate that word) precision rifle.
Sounds like a fun project, good luck.
I think the Spanish switched to 7.92x57 when they adopted the 98s. But if it is going to be a new barrel, then anything with a standard Mauser head diameter and a case and LOAL not exceeding the original length will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think the Spanish switched to 7.92x57 when they adopted the 98s. But if it is going to be a new barrel, then anything with a standard Mauser head diameter and a case and LOAL not exceeding the original length will work fine.
I wonder if a 30-06 will work well without modifications. I may be able to get a good deal on a shilen 30-06 barrel that nobody wanted and has ben sitting in my bosses back room for years.
 

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Here is what you can get into. My project was about 20 years ago. The 308 Mauser still shoots just fine, and I have killed my share of deer with it:

MAUSER PROJECT
1. I traded an old rifle for 98 Mauser, Standard Model, Spanish Export WW2, re-barreled to 308 by Spain, serial number s# 1xxx.J in about April, 1990. I had $65.00 in the traded rifle. Next I purchased a Rynite Stock from Choate Machine and Tool at Bald Knob on Thursday, September 20, 1990; purchase price $90.00. Next I took the Mauser off its stock and put it on the rynite stock. I took the Mauser to gunsmith on Saturday, September 29, 1990. I got it back from gunsmith on Thursday, October 4, 1990. He charged $17.50 to bend the bolt. And, will charge $7.50 for drilling and tapping the scope mounts. He had already drilled and tapped the mounts, but has not been paid yet.
Total outlay so far:
Springfield = ................ $ 65.00
Choate Stock =................ 90.00
Gunsmith =...........................17.50
subtotal $ 172.50

Further Expenses:
Gunsmith (drilling & tapping).... $ 7.50
Safety ....................... $ 24.00
Gunsmith (cutting, tapering, .... $ 50.00
bluing)
Acra glass ................... $ 8.50
black dye .................... $ 2.90
Timney trigger ............... $ 45.47
Total so far: $ 310.87
August 23, 1993
I ordered the following from Brownells: Received on 8/20/93.

mauser bolt shroud ....... $ 24.50
L. Brownell Bolt Knob..... $ 5.50
Super swivels............. $ 8.95
Total so far: $ 349.82

Took them to Gunsmith today: August 23, 1993
After all the stock work, the Choate Stock just did not work; so ordered a Bell & Carson 98 Mauser Stock.

Bell & Carson Stock- not sure what I paid for it but about $150

$ 349.82
$ 150.00
$ 499.82
8/27/92 Bought 2.5X10 World Class Tasco
Scope used . . . . . $ 109.94
subtotal: $ 609.76
 

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>30-06 will work but you'll have to file a little bit off the back of the magazine and the front and ramp. It's pretty minor and short .30-06 rounds will fit as is if you reload.

And Jjames - I bought a Weatherby Vanguard (Howa) in 300 Weatherby Mag - 7mm Mag was same price, blue, synthetic stock, for $400 OTD at a Walmart a few years ago. Put a Nikon Team Primos scope (1 step below a Gold Monarch) on it for $240 including base and mount. The stock was a perfect fit as it was, which means it may be too short for most men.

So at $620 total I'm running about $10 ahead of you but the rifle doesn't need another bit of work as it's great as is. First loads I tried (Wby factory ammo is horribly expensive but it costs no more to reload than any other 30 cal) with 150 and 180 grain bullets gave groups of 1.25 inch at 100 yards.

This has reinforced my opinion that sporterizing is a waste of time and money. Others may have an emotional attachment to their sporters but my Vanguard is a tool for killing deer and hogs, maybe something bigger if money and health allow, and will do it without fuss, muss or discomfort.
 

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Actually jjk308, that was ultimately my point .... $600 plus, for a sporter. At the time I started I had no idea of the end cost. I am not complaining now and have no regrets; as the Mauser does just exactly what I want, and is the absolute size and configuration I want, but it is a warning of what you can get into if you want it perfect. I agree that most would be much better off buying a commercial rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
>30-06 will work but you'll have to file a little bit off the back of the magazine and the front and ramp. It's pretty minor and short .30-06 rounds will fit as is if you reload.

And Jjames - I bought a Weatherby Vanguard (Howa) in 300 Weatherby Mag - 7mm Mag was same price, blue, synthetic stock, for $400 OTD at a Walmart a few years ago. Put a Nikon Team Primos scope (1 step below a Gold Monarch) on it for $240 including base and mount. The stock was a perfect fit as it was, which means it may be too short for most men.

So at $620 total I'm running about $10 ahead of you but the rifle doesn't need another bit of work as it's great as is. First loads I tried (Wby factory ammo is horribly expensive but it costs no more to reload than any other 30 cal) with 150 and 180 grain bullets gave groups of 1.25 inch at 100 yards.

This has reinforced my opinion that sporterizing is a waste of time and money. Others may have an emotional attachment to their sporters but my Vanguard is a tool for killing deer and hogs, maybe something bigger if money and health allow, and will do it without fuss, muss or discomfort.
Thanks for the info on the 30-06. They fit in the magazine box with no issues, but I can experiment with feeding or stick to the 8mm route.
Actually jjk308, that was ultimately my point .... $600 plus, for a sporter. At the time I started I had no idea of the end cost. I am not complaining now and have no regrets; as the Mauser does just exactly what I want, and is the absolute size and configuration I want, but it is a warning of what you can get into if you want it perfect. I agree that most would be much better off buying a commercial rifle.
I have a $400 budget for this rifle. and I will make it happen for that, or $500 tops. And I know I can make this happen for that budget, if not less. If you dont have any advice other then 'this is more expensive then you think' I dont really need to hear it to be honest. This is going to be exactly as expensive as I expected (helps when one can make parts themselves and parkerize it and such).
 

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I've lost track of just what I spent, but I believe I built this for less than $350
6.5 Swedish with a NOS Husky reciever, NOS bolt and a NOS 17" carbine barrel. Bishop stock from ebay. Bushnell scope was extra. Did all the work myself including cutting and welding the bolt handle and mounting the scope.
Shoots half dollar size groups.
As good as my $900 Ruger International 1 of 500 in 6.5 Swedish.
THAT'S why it's fun to build your own.
 
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