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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any info on these rifles? I'm looking at a CF2 in 6.5x55. Not too much info floating out on the web for these.

I know they're English, push feed, mauser-style locking lugs, good barrels, heavy, accurate (?), well machined receivers, triggers adjustable but can be bad.
 

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Anybody have any info on these rifles? I'm looking at a CF2 in 6.5x55. Not too much info floating out on the web for these.

I know they're English, push feed, mauser-style locking lugs, good barrels, heavy, accurate (?), well machined receivers, triggers adjustable but can be bad.
The CF2 rifles came after the majestic and monarch...the 6.5 Swedish CF2 was made for sale in Scadanavia....I have seen a couple for sale in NZ that were imported 2nd hand from Sweden.Some of the BSA sporters were push feed...and some had the mauser claw extractor....they were well regarded as hunting rifles down here and are still highly sought after on the used gun market.They were a well made working rifle...there is a reason they are still popular many years after they ceased to be made.
 

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owned them all.... earlier Imperial my favorite, monark was great but average in accuracy....the cf2 in 6.5 x55 would be interesting to own...they were by far the least wrote about.....many magines brag on their accuracy....
i never had one.....but 6.5 x 55 if i were younger i might have given it a try....
if in the $ 450 to $ 575 + ....condition range from 95 % to 99 % it would be interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I picked the 6.5x55 up. Pretty good bluing and stock condition. Missing the dovetail inserts in the rear and front sight, but those are sourced easily from Williams. Stock has some minor handling marks and dings. Lots of wear on trigger guard and bottom metal at front action screw. All easy fixes that would be worth it for this accurate, smooth action, and great caliber!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The ejector is a little weak spitting out cartridges (not empty cases), is that normal? I'm used to the fixed ejector on Mausers throwing them out a few feet. Otherwise, other questions are, is the diamond on the grip cap supposed to be white? Mine's black. Also, there are some handling marks and dings here and there, a little chip on the rosewood fore-end cap on the right side. The bolt cycles very smoothly and feeds fine. Rifle is very well balanced for an 8lb gun! Trigger.. wow.. amazing! So light it's incredible, better than my Savage Accu-Trigger. The safety is positive and easy to use. Magazine release functions too.

There's a lot of grease in this gun and some dirt and grime. I'm not sure about the history of this gun, whether it was used and stored away or what. But the mag plate has lots of grease as well as the mag well. Bore is excellent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FYI for those that own a BSA CF2. I was at my local gunsmith and he showed me how to take the bolt down. It's not too difficult.

1) Turn the bolt shroud clockwise so it sits on the top of the bolt body, not in the notches. Do not over turn it or else you'll get stuck, just enough so it sits out of the 'cocked' groove. This will align the holes in the bolt shroud to the holes in the cocking piece of the firing pin assembly.

2) Insert a thin punch through both holes and pull up and unscrew the assembly from the bolt body. Remove punch and bolt shroud will separate from firing pin assembly.

3) Cocking indicator can be taken out of bolt shroud, careful as it is spring loaded.

4) To remove firing pin from from spring/assembly, compress the firing pin spring, and slide the firing pin off. It is secured by a notch that allows it to slide into a mating surface on the spring guide. If you are familiar with the Swiss K31 rifles, it is the same concept.

5) Completely disassembled bolt. Reverse these steps to reassemble.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tonight I put on the first coat of Alkanet root oil. Just enough for it to sit and absorb, then rubbed it in and then wiped excess off. She's dried off now. Coat 2 tomorrow. The oil really enhances the grain and also blends the scratches and blemishes. Does Red oil work on other woods besides walnut like birch and beech? Also the burnishing of wood gives a really nice sheen that reflects.

Before and After (so far)











 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm very happy with the stock, I didn't sand so the recoil pad mated up well with the wood.


It looks way better than it used to, and it's a nice oil finish (7 coats BLO/Alkanet Root) with a coat of paste wax on top. It's smooth. It still shows some of the character marks of its age through the scratches, dings etc., but I like that aspect too.


I put on a leather sling which is from Spain (Corzo). I think it matches the tone quite well. Swivels are Blackhawk 1'' Lok-Down swivels made in USA.


Metalwork should be added shortly, and I have sourced out Williams guide sights to complete the look.


Anyways obligatory photos before and after:


Before:






After:












 

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Yes good job, it's good to see these rifles refurbished for the future. I've just started using 6.5mm x 55mm for Sika Deer stalking and its a great flat shooting round and easy on the shoulder. You'll have a lot of fun with that rifle.
 
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