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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read elsewhere that some people recommend bedding the model 46 stock as insurance against stock cracks. Does anyone have suggestions? I've bedded sveral actions, but I really don't want to modify my old beauty any more than needed. Any suggestions? Bed or not? If so - where? recoil lug only, or complete action?

Are there any other suggestions to lessen the probability of cracks in the stock? My 46 is crack free and I'd like to keep her that way. Thanks, Terry.

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This is actually a really good question.

For collecting and to enhance future value, don't bed the rifle or modify it in any way...but don't shoot it, either...

Reason is, the Huskys DO have a tendency to crack, both at the tang and at the recoil lug shoulder and of course at the trigger guard web as well.

I use the rifles I have as tools of the hunt, and modify as necessary. In fact, I sort of think of my activity in this regard as following a great Swedish tradition, as you can tell by many rifles that have been brought to the New World that the Swedes were great tinkerers, with many, many guns set up specifically for a single shooter. I have heard-tell that the surname "Bubbasson" is quite common in Sverige...

So I rebed.

However, if you choose a middle rout, that is, not to rebed but rather to shoot but simply improve, start with the tang area. THAT is the worst place for cracking on an old Husky. Relieve the stock wood behind the tang so the action can settle into the wood a bit without butting up against the round inletted portion behind the action tang.

Remember though, that this will not GUARANTEE protection from stock cracking. I have seen a couple that had NO contact between the recoil lug and the stock shoulder and would have required 1/8 of an inch of relief OR MORE behind the tang to prevent the tang from splitting the stock there.

The funny thing to me is that the inletting AROUND the stock is near perfect. In other words, the Swedes possessed superb skill in wood working, but took a walk from the engineering of a shooting iron in the bedding of recoil shoulders! Very strange to me.

Incidentally, the 146/640 {FN 98-action} guns I've seen were worse than the 46's. Was the tooling for the stocks for FN-action guns set up using a different action than the production FN 98 actions? I have no idea, but somebody was definitely asleep at the switch.

All this rambling...

Here's what I do:

1} Freefloat the barrel.
2} Hog out the recoil shoulder and apply bedding compound to the shoulder area and front of receiver and a bit of barrel {has differed from gun-to-gun with no observable to-me differences in performance}.
3} Relieve the tang area.

I HAVE full-length bedded a gun but generally prefer freefloating. Some find free-floating to be anathema on a Husky and that is understandable of course.

So there's my 2 kronor.
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