[Tom-M]

Started off with my muzzle loading Disc rifle. Broke the ram rod after 2nd shot. Ohh well.
Then took out my Rasheed on which I had recently added a spacer to the trigger houseing. Previously; for some reason after every other shot - I would find that the action was not cocked. New round chambered, hammer not cocked/forward, and a slight impression on primer. Adj gas did not help. Never had it go full-auto however. Did'nt shoot it much because of this.
Now after adding the spacer to the middle bolt on the trigger housing; I loaded two rounds into the magazine. Pulled trigger twice and two rounds went down range perfectly. Loaded mag again with 5 rounds - emptied again with no problem. Loaded 7 rounds, and on fireing the fifth - found that the hammer was'nt cocked.
Adj gas flow counter clockwise, and after 2 rounds same problem. Adj gas a little more counter clockwise, and after first round found action not cocked. Went to pull bolt back, and found action locked! Could'nt retract bolt no matter how hard I pulled!
Did'nt know if action had live round or not in it. So disassembled action carefully - fearing a discharge would be really bad. Even after the removal of trigger assembly and rear block could not retract bolt.
Finally using a rubber mallet - got bolt unstuck. Case was fired. Case did not appear damaged, but I thought it looked like it was a little too dirty on the outside?
Guessing right now that chamber is dirty or pitted? Need to find a chamber inspector. Bore on rifle is near mint.
Any ideas on problem????
Can anyone show me a picture of a properly assembled Gas Adj Valve? Possibly in full setting, and in closed positions?

Thanks for any help!!!

Tom

 

[Tom-M]

Was reading thread on semi board about problems with FN49, and it was brought up that the shellack and polymer coated Eastern Block ammo causes this type of problem with the Hakim. I have not fired this rifle more than 50 rounds total (Norinco 7.62x39 non-corrosive ammo with I guess brass coated steel cases); so assuming buildup is old. I am cleaning the chamber area with Shooter's Choice and a combination of a 12 Ga and 9mm brass brush.
Really need a Chamber inspector. Viewing the barrel and chamber with a bore light seems to show an excellent clean barrel right now.

 

[mariko]

I had the same problem as you,I cleaned the chamber and then polished it with crocus cloth wrapped around a slotted dowel,fixed it right up.

 

[Tombstone]

The Rasheed chamber is chrome plated and should not require anything harsher than a bronze brush. A dirty chamber is a possible cause for the problems you are experiencing, but there are a few other things that could be wrong. Other problems could be the gas valve, and/or, the center trigger-guard bushing you say you installed. First, go ahead and tear down the gas valve and run a pipe cleaner with solvent through the gas pipe (no need to remove the pipe). You can use the instructions for the Hakim http://www.surplusrifle.com/hakim/rifledisassembly/index.asp Just remove the handguard to gain access to the valve. Using a proper gas valve wrench, unscrew the valve while simultaneously lifting up in the fatter wing of the valve washer (not the skinny one that engages the notches in the valve body) when it hangs up on the valve housing. Once you remove it, clean out any carbon fowling that may be in there. They are usually pretty clean though. Upon reassembly, it is a good idea to put a little Anti-Seize on the threads of the valve. Make sure the valve washer is positioned on the valve so that the skinny wing (the one that engages the groves in the valve body) is close to the point of the pie shaped valve. Fig 22 of the link above shows the proper alignment between the valve and washer. Fig 25 shows the parts improperly aligned as the pie shaped valve is pointing near the fat wing. When you get it properly aligned, screw it all the way down till it bottoms out, then back it out until the skinny wing engages the groves in the housing.
Another cause (for the failure to re-cock anyway) could be that your center trigger guard bushing is (just barely) too long. ((did you make one or did you buy and original??)) OR the screw is really loose. Since the problem is intermittent, it may be difficult to verify, but try this simple test. Remove the magazine, safety block and action cover—but leave the bolt and carrier on the receiver. With the hammer in the un-cocked position, pull the trigger back and hold it there. At the same time, pull back on the charging handle until the action opens. --------- When the action opened, you should have felt the trigger snap back further as the disconector engaged the trigger bar. You should have also noticed the hammer sear move forward slightly. Do this several times to see if this fails to happen. You can also do this by simply pushing down on the disconector while holding the trigger back. You can see the disconector through the oval cutout for the hammer. It is a stamped sheet metal bar on the right side of the receiver. Just push down on the disconector bar (through the oval hammer cutout) while holding the trigger back. It should snap the trigger back further and move the hammer sear forward. Although you can get the disconector to work by pushing on it, it MUST work by pulling back on the action. If you notice how the parts work together, you can see how having a trigger guard bushing that is too long can affect how the disconector and trigger extension work together by increasing the distance between the two. An increase in this distance will prevent the disconector from pushing down on the trigger extension enough to disengage the sear so that it moves forward to catch the hammer. Failing to do so will cause the hammer follow the bolt forward after you fire a round. Again, since your problem is intermittent, it may only happen when the rifle is subjected to the shock of firing a round. So the tolerances between these two parts could be just barely out of spec.
So----to make a long story short----I recommend that you shorten the center trigger guard bushing by about 1/16”
If you are having trouble understanding this, let me know and I will try to take some pictures and post them.
Good Luck
TOM

 

[Tom-M]

Thanks - Tombstone.

Bushing I believe is original - bought from guy that sells Hakim/Rasheed parts on this board some months back. Nothing to compare with. Just finally made it to the range with the carbine.

Would a gas problem cause the case to get stuck in the chamber? Or were you saying that minor cleaning should solve that problem.

Rifle completely disassembled right now - giving it probably the most thorough cleaning I have ever performed. Will follower your instructions when done.

Biggest concern I have right now is I can't find that pin part that fit against the hammer. Scared it might have got lost at the range when I disassembled it there! That day just keeps getting worse!


aaaahhhh

Tom

 

[Tombstone]

A good cleaning could, very well, solve your problem. Also, just tearing the rifle apart, cleaning and re-assembling it, could fix cycling issues such as yours. I have ‘fixed’ a few simi-auto’s by just tearing them down and cleaning, inspecting, lubricating and re-assembling the parts. I would find nothing wrong with the rifle, but after I put it back together, it would fire and cycle fine. I chalk this phenomenon up to careful re-assembly and fitting of the parts (maybe the previous owner had something installed backwards). But the Rasheed has a chrome lined bore and is much less susceptible to sticky cases than the Hakim (which is very susceptible). Unless the chamber is noticeably filthy, I think the problem lies elsewhere. Also, unless you are using some old, crusty ammo you found on the bottom shelf of a smokey gunshop, ammo should not be the problem. Most 7.62x39 ammo is fairly new and has been stored properly.
I think your problem is in the gas valve or the disconector. One of my Rasheeds was stove piping every other round. I found that the cause was the gas valve had not been screwed all the way in. I could screw it in an additional1½ revolutions before it bottomed out. This is why I stated, in my earlier post, that you should re-install the valve until it bottoms out—then back it out until the locking washer wing engages the groves cut in the valve body.
As far as the disconector goes, re-assemble the rifle and try the test I mentioned above. If you can’t find anything wrong, take her to the range and see if you inadvertently ‘fixed’ it. You might get lucky.

Contact JB and see if he has a replacement hammer spring strut if you don’t find yours.
TOM

 

[marvell]

Gas recoil problems

Can't comment on the 1st problem, but probably is related. However, Bolt sticking; I had a similar problem with my FAL with a bad gas tube, 1 round would fire and action would cycle back just a hair and be stuck. But as I have a rubber buttplate it was easy enough to free. I just pointed the rifle in the air, grabbed the cocking lever, and bulled back while bouncing the rifle lightly on the bench and would pop free after a few bounces. I would think the same would work for you, if need be, if you had a rubber pad for the becnh or some such. Turns out my gas tube had a stripped end (thus almost no pressure fed back to the bolt). Had a few rounds where the bolt would open about an inch and then would cock fine, the worst problem seemed to be when it was not quite locked, but not quite unlocked, thus stuck. Once the gas tube was replaced and everything cleaned and re-assmbled, and gas pressure tuned of course, she shoots fine. I have not had a problem since. On the up side, these kind of things really help you get to know your rifle, especially once you have had it apart a few times. Also, you may spot something else not quite right and be able to fix it before it becomes a problem. Good luck friend. Marvell

 

[Tom-M]

While I have this thing almost completely apart. Seen a lot written about gas adj setting - some I thought was contradictory.

Looks pretty simple when disassembled. Please correct me if I err.

1). When point of pie shape is faceing directly back toward shooter (6 O'clock) - carbine's gas flow is at max.

2). Turning pie either direction away from 6 O'clock deceases gas flow.

3). The single line etched into the gas block at 8 O'clock indicates that gas is shut off totally. Incremental decrease in gas flow from 6 to 8 O'clock.

4).The four lines etched between 5 O'clock and 4 O'clock indicate incremental decreases in gas flow. I would guess that the four etched lines are factory indicated settings. 4 O'clock appears to be shutoff of gas flow or very close!

 

[Tombstone]

Tom,
There are only 5 gas valve settings on the Rasheed. Four of them are to adjust the gas flow back to the bolt carrier (by reducing or increasing the flow). The remaining one is to cut off the gas flow completely. The four gas adjusting positions are engaged when the point of the valve is pointing directly at the shooter (the 6:00 position). The 6:00 position is the ‘wide open’ position on the valve. This position allows the largest volume of gas to impact the bolt carrier. By turning the valve clockwise, you have three more adjusting positions (for a total of four). Turning the valve clockwise (from the 6:00 position) will reduce the volume of gas that impacts the carrier. Each click will slightly reduce the volume. To me, all four adjusting positions are located between the 6:00 and 7:00 position. So I would say that the four gas adjusting positions are (approximately) at the 6:00, 6:20, 6:40, and 7:00 positions. As you noticed, the notches on the valve are at the 4:00 -- 5:00 position but the valve will be pointing at the 6:00-7:00 position when assembled.

The gas cutoff position is near the 10:00 position. To engage it, turn the valve clockwise (past the 7:00 position) until you here (or feel) another click. It should be near the 10:00 position. Do not try and force the valve past the10:00 position when going clockwise, OR, the 6:00 position when going counter-clockwise. The valve locking-washer wings are contacting the valve body at these points of travel. Over torqueing them may damage or break the valve or washer. It is this wing that you will need to pry up slightly when removing the valve completely for cleaning or inspection.
TOM

 

[dime820666]

i need rasheed parts

my father gave me his rasheed rifle but the fireing pin is broken. Can anyone hep me????

 

[Tom-M]

I just got ahold of the guy that used to frequent this website and has Rasheed parts. Will let him know to check out this website and that you need a fireing pin.

Tom