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Discussion Starter #1
At an auction over the Labor Day weekend, I bought someone's unfinished Mauser sporter
project, a Mauser 98 action that had been rebarreled to what looks like about a 25 caliber and put into what I think is a
Richard's microfit stock. The bolt was missing the firing pin and shroud, and no
one knew what it was chambered for, I got it pretty cheap And it has been kind of fun
collecting the parts along the way. At first I thought that when you don't know
what a rifle is chambered for, you have to make a chamber cast. But now, I think
that you can go a long way by just looking at case dimensions

http://www.reloadbench.com/cartspec.html

and having a few empty cases of various cartridges that you are willing to sacrifice
for science. Cut the neck off of a 270 case and it should come close to if not chamber
in a 25-06 but not a 257 roberts, cut the neck off of a 308 and that should come close
to chambering in a 243, drop into 257 roberts improved but stick way out of 257 Roberts.
Has anyone else out there worked through a problem this way?
 

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If you don't want to go to the expense of buying the chamber cast metal (cerosafe), you can get a good cast from using stock bedding epoxy, or any decent hard curing epoxy. Put a thin even coat of wax (car wax works good) in the chamber and up into the bore a ways. Also the breech end of the barrel area. Run a cleaning rod with a tight fitting patch, also waxed, into the muzzle and up to , but not into the chamber. Mix up some epoxy and carefully drip it down into the chamber with the barreled action upright in a vise. When the chamber is just full, quit. You'll probably have some spills on the breech end of the barrel, but you gave that a coat of release wax before starting. When cured, pop the casting out with the cleaning rod. It may stick to the rod tip and patch, but can be clipped off easily, reason to give yourself a bit of extra casting at that end. Measure it up and do your comparisons. Clean the wax out of the barrel with solvent before fireing!
 
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