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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get some good alcohol-based stain that will penetrate the wood of a 10/22 stock. I'm not sure what kind of wood Ruger uses in those, but I know I've never been happy with the way oil-based stain does on it.

What brand is good, and where can I get it?

TIA!!
 

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Cabinet makers alcohol stains will stain just about anything in natural wood. Just don't get any on your hide as it will have to wear off. If you get walnut and mahogany you can mix and match and make almost any gun stock colour you will ever need......
 

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I've purchased alcohol based stains at Rockler stores, they sell woodworking stuff, might be one near you?
 

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Woodcrafters has Transtint alcohol dye.
I like the honey/amber tint BUT as stated above, this stuff is serious and will NOT come off human skin.
It also wants to "wick" out of the squeeze bottle, so watch out!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. We have Lowe's, Home Depot and of course Tru-Value here where I live. I don't know that they carry anything but oil-based stain. I may have to go online to get what I want. Any suggestions there?
 

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Woodcrafters has a great on line cataloge.
 

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Behlen's Solar-Lux dye. I've done several birch stocks with it (Rem. 870s, not Mosins:p) and a walnut stock, and it works wonders. It is easy, however, to make the color too dark.

Woodcraft sells it, I think. The mahogany is pretty red. The American Walnut looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info, guys!
 

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Brownells carries Pilkington's alcohol-based stains, and probably others. Not cheap, but a little bit goes a long way. I would suggest applying a pre-stain wood conditioner to your birch stock before staining it. These are available at paint stores, hardware stores, Lowe's, HD, etc.
 

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Back in the days when I was really into muzzleloading, and primitive living, I made some wood stains using denatured alcohol or ammonia in a mason jar with a plug of chewing tobacco added. After sitting for 3-4 months, they made a nice stain. Just be sure to apply it outdoors until the stink evaporates.
 

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Back in the days when I was really into muzzleloading, and primitive living, I made some wood stains using denatured alcohol or ammonia in a mason jar with a plug of chewing tobacco added. After sitting for 3-4 months, they made a nice stain. Just be sure to apply it outdoors until the stink evaporates.

I never heard that one before. Sounds interesting, I think I'll make a batch.

+1 for Pilkington's from Brownells.
 

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Tandy leather supply has a both alcohol and oil based dyes.

Alcohol dies have two brands Pro dye and Fiebings.

Pro dye has more brown tints. Fiebings has a the amber to reddish brown tints. Comes in Light, medium, and dark brown in both types. Other colors available if you want to get fancy with the yellow or orange tints.

Will work on any wood. No need to remove the original finnish. But will need a finnish over the dye as it dries muted. The muted look will come "alive" when a finnish is coated over the dye. Its like plugging it in and it just lights up. Dramatic difference.

Dilute to lighten shades.

Will apply over Tung oil or any other finnish. It will take on a muted look after drying and any type of finnish can be applied over it. Behrs 500 Tung oil is a favorite. Hard to find. Still available from Behrs web site. It has more body and a smoother feel than other so called "Tung oils".

BLO or raw LO will work depending on preferences.

It will also mix with shellac. I use a Prevo $5 aeresol sprayer to apply pre color mixed shellac. From Home Depot. Has a aeresol sprayer with a little jar attached to the bottom for the shellac and dye mix.

With this you can mix and match any color or tint you want.

Much easier to work with than stains, and options on tint and color are greater.

Depth is created by applying your oil, or shellac, or whatever finnish, many cotats, and then applying the dye, let dry, and apply more finnish. It hangs the dye in suppension and creates a very deep color look.
Works well on Tung oil type finnishes or shellac.

Spit coating the stripped or raw wood with shellac rubbed out with steel wool to keep the cosmo from bleeding out on Milsurps and then any type of Tung oil, of BLO, Fiebings dye can be applied over all finnnished and top coated with the original finnish.

Just one option.
 

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Woodcrafters is going out of business. No telling what they have left.

Tandy has a web site to order from also.

Just regular MinWax wood product stains available everywhere has a lot of optons for color and all it takes is to apply with a rag. Many coats will be needed to to get a tough deep finnish. May need to strip the original finnish off first to use this stuff.
 
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