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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently picked up an original 1918 scope which came with the original rings and I’m wondering how the Accumounts P14 mounts are and if my original rings will fit prop to their bases? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...
 

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So I recently picked up an original 1918 scope which came with the original rings and I’m wondering how the Accumounts P14 mounts are and if my original rings will fit prop to their bases? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...
Accumounts - Enfield 303
They list four sizes. Use theirs when you determine the size.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m more concerned about the original claws fitting properly to the Accumounts bases. I already have original rings with the scope.
 

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Use the claws provided with the accumount bases after you determine the scope diameter..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i want to use the original rings that are already on the scope. I’m trying to find out if just the Accumount bases are compatible.
 

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The front mount is sort of OK, but the cross pin diameter is a tad too large for the notches in the front of the front scope mount. You could open those notches out to accommodate the cross pin, but the claws will then be too loose on an original block. Hence, you would have to drift this pin out and turn it down to the right diameter where it would engage the front claw notches. In my set purchased a while ago, this pin pushes out with thumb pressure. Note that this pin is diabolically hard.

The rear mount is also needing a lot of work. I would have to measure the diameter of the semi circular latch when I get the chance, but the rear block external shape and the latch thumb tab are very different to the original. I think the distance between the securing screws was OK.

In general, the accumount blocks I have will never look right from a collector perspective, but with a precision lathe and a file some work could make a shooter. Cheers D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Damien... thanks so much for the reply and for all the info! This was exactly what I was looking for. It sounds like you went through the same project I am facing. It sounds like the front base is a fairly easy fix just turning down the pin diameter a bit. I certainly don't want to modify the notches in the original ring claws. It sounds like the rear base is more the issue not really being true to an original rear base but I guess there probably isn't much that can be done with that. I am trying to build a representative example of the P14 sniper rifle so I may have to just live with it. Can you tell me if the Accumounts rear base al least locks up properly to an original set of rings? It if does I may just have to go with it.

Thanks again for the help!! I sincerely appreciate it!!
 

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Hatrick, no worries.

Accumounts front mounting block cross pin is 5.96mm diameter vs original of 5.79mm diameter. Doesn't sound much but it makes a difference. Slot width on both is effectively 4.5mm, so no slop in that respect.

The accumounts rear latch pin is 5.96 diameter and the original is 5.33mm diameter. Quite a big difference, and not worth opening out the semicircular notch on an original rear scope leg. Again, you could possibly turn down the pin diameter of the latch pin where it bears against the rear leg, but that would be a nightmare in terns of actually doing it without specialised equipment - it is not big enough to hold on most lathes. You would be better off making a whole new latch as the accumounts one I have is a dog that gives only token resemblance to the original.

The rear block also has some differences. Suggest you get a copy of The British Sniper by Ian Skennerton. Page 80 has the production drawings for the Pattern 1918 scope mounts and rifle mounts.

Having done all of that, the Accumounts rear block may not let an original rear leg drop into place without some interference, so there may be some hand filing required to get it all slick. Both Accumount front and rear mounting blocks are made out of very hard steel, which may have been chosen to get repeatable accuracy with their own production methods. In some respects something like 4140 high tensile steel is easier to use despite being hard, and it does have the same surface finish dramas that 1020 mild steel tends to.
 
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