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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I thought I would start a new thread so my pics did not get lost down stream.
Not a sniper stock but my sniper came out the same, so...
This one had thick garnet shellac (flaking off) which I removed with de-natured alcohol, a toothbrush and paper towells..
The bare wood got a brief wipe down with BLO (as opposed to a 15 minute soak as per the instructions) and overnight cure.
Several VERY thin coats of shellac were applied, followed by one coat at a more "normal" cut or thickness.
The initial coats were almost all alcohol with very little shellac and soaked deep into the wood to establish a firm anchor or base coat for the final (thicker) coating of shellac.
Lastly, it was rubbed with 0000 steel wool dipped in BLO to knock back the shine and smooth out any "runs" in the shellac.
I've seen pictures of WWII issued 91/30s and this IMHO is a lot closer to original than the garnet shellac mess that refurbs wear.
I used "handmade" non-dewaxed flakes, the type with twig and insect bits embedded in the flakes, which I guessed was what they used in the 30's...
 

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Wow, that turned out great. Thanks for posting the pics and technique.

I just finished getting all the soaked in cosmo off/out of mine and am now left with pretty much bare wood. As much as I hate refinishing a gun (historical integrity) sometimes it just has to be done. Your right about the shellac being thinner on originals compared to refurbs. From what I've seen that does appear to be true. Now, I just need to get my butt in gear and get mine finished.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
That's the great thing about shellac, it's very fast and easy to work with,
AND if you mess it up or don't like the results, it comes off without a major effort.
FWIW, I bought WAY too much of the shellac you see on that stock, so if you want some, send me a PM.
I'm not giving it away, but it's very cheap...

I forgot to add that this method and shellac stays put when the bands are slid over the handguard.
No "shaving" or marring of the finish,unlike the refurb finish.
That's one of my pet peeves, not being able to do routine maintaince without damaging the finish during band removal!!
 

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The bare wood got a brief wipe down with BLO (as opposed to a 15 minute soak as per the instructions) and overnight cure.
Several VERY thin coats of shellac were applied, followed by one coat at a more "normal" cut or thickness.
The initial coats were almost all alcohol with very little shellac and soaked deep into the wood to establish a firm anchor or base coat for the final (thicker) coating of shellac.

I used "handmade" non-dewaxed flakes, the type with twig and insect bits embedded in the flakes, which I guessed was what they used in the 30's...[/quote]

It's good that you used a wash coat to seal in the BLO and then built up a heavier coat. That's most important. But I am surprised that the color isn't much darker since you used the "seedlac" flakes (twigs & insects) which is usually very dark red orange. You'll find the stock darkening naturally over time as the BLO oxidizes with exposure to light. Here's one I did not quite two years ago that has since darkened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The amount of BLO is pretty minimal, I rubbed in the least amount that would cover the wood and then rubbed it down with paper towells HARD right afterward.
BUT those pictures were taken this AM and the shellac went on last WED, so it is pretty fresh.
It IS dry though as the bands were hard to slide on yet no distortion or scratches occured.
 

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Yours looks great too Mosinmeister. You did a fantastic job. Did you use BLO also or just straight shellac?


Mike
That was using straight shellac built up with sevearal coats starting with a wash coat of 70/30% DNA/shellac. No BLO.
 
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