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Silver Bullet member
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am a cheap plinker. Since 7.7 Japanese (Hornady @$1.1, PCI @$0.8)is the most expensive ammo among my toys, I borrowed my friend’s press and did my first reload.

Die: Lee 3 pc die set $22
Brass: Prvi, 7.7x58 primed, @$0.39
Brass: 8mm, free from my fired ammo
Bullet: Prvi, 303 cal (0.311”), @$0.14 (soft point & FMJ), 150 gr, non-magnetic
Shipping on above 3 items: $4
Primer on 2nd reload: free from my friend
Powder: free from my friend, 40 grs of 3031

I have loaded the Prvi brass twice, no problem at all. It seems FMJ is easier in reloading.

In order to reduce my cost further, I loaded FMJ bullets with old 8mm brass. Please refer to the photo, from the **LEFT**:
1. 8mm brass
2. 8mm brass with FMJ bullet: I removed the firing pin, loaded the ammo in the chamber and ejected them.
3. 8mm brass after firing with T99
4. Prvi, 7.7x58 primed brass with soft point bullet

I reloaded the fired 8mm brass again. They worked flawlessly.
 

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Using 8 x 57 brass for 7.7 x 58

Brilliant idea. Can't wait to see what Mag says and Davef, when he tries it. Roy too.
 

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Not much to say . I also use reformed 8x57mm brass, I like it better than 30/06 brass. We have a rapid fire match with rifles that uses up alot of ammo. A friend and I wanted to get out cheap when using our T-99's in the match. We pulled some bullets from some 7.62x54r ammo and seated them in necksized 8x57mm surplus cases. The ammo was not the most accurate, only about 5 + inch 5-shot groups at 100 yards. Since we only had to hit 12 inch squares at 100 yards we figured it would do .It worked fine for us both during sight in shooting. About half way into the match after our rifles heated up [ after about 30 rounds ] , we both started to get about 50% no-fires. That killed us in the match. After the rifles cooled down the no-fires would go off. The heat enlarged the chambers enough that the headspace became too long to set them off. After the cases were fire formed , then reloaded , the problem was gone. mag
 

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I have a late war Type 99 short rifle. Non-chrome bore, matching # bolt.

Norma brass
200 gr RN .311" cast bullet with gas check - Lyman 311299
12 grs Unique

This will put 5 rds into 1" at 50 yds. A very surprisingly accurate rifle for as rough as it appears, though it appears to have not seen combat at all. I wouldn't feel undergunned with this rifle. With the wood being a rather soft and less dense the rifle is light compared with others.

It does have a fault. First time I fired the Norma factory ammo it swelled the entire case so much I could barely resize the cases. After that first time I just shoot it with this cast bullet load and the cases size easy enough.

When I shot my Type 38 with cast bullet handloads the first time I thought I got lucky twice with my little 2 rifle Japanese collection. Three shots into one cluster. Dang!

Problem was... it was one shot sideways:) Not a bad looking rifle. Has a dust cover. Import marked and with a mum. Was a freebie so I scrounged up an old set of Herters dies and bought one box of Norma ammo for $20.

I'd like to have an early war Type 99. You Arisaka collectors have snagged every last rifle in the entire country... seems like. I started as a shooter/handloader/milsurp collecter in 1965 at age 14 and Japanese rifles didn't get much respect back then. Took a long time but I'm glad to see them take their rightful place as significant collectables. I waited too long:-(

Dutchman
 

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Dutchman,
Nice shooting, and welcome on the Japanese forum.

There are plenty of early rifles around, I think there is still one on the Japanese trader forum now.
 

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I usually dont get enough 8mm brass to make it economical, buying new brass the price difference just isnt there to justify the extra steps.If I had lots of spent 8mm Id use it...Wish I had access to 8mm and 7mm brass in quantity, would make my 7.7 and my 6.5x257 loading a lot cheaper (I really need some bulk 7x57)...the only major reforming Im doing much right now is .303 brit to 6.5 x 53R .
 

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Many thanks to all- I knew that I could score some great ideas from this forum even though this was my first post on the Rising Sun board. I now have a plan forward and I am collecting my ingredients. Again thanks for the insight and your experience.
 

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I started reloading in 1960 so I could shoot my Japanese rifles. I bought a Herters press for $13, a set of dies for $4.95, power measure and scales about that cheep, forgot exactly. Got bullets and power from a local source, powder $2.95 and bullets for $2.50. Cheap, yes it was but when you only make $85 a week and have a wife and child, thats much. Before 6.5 brass got plentiful, I formed my brass from 308 cases and 7.7 from 30-06. Brings back memories.
 

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I started reloading in 1960 so I could shoot my Japanese rifles. I bought a Herters press for $13, a set of dies for $4.95, power measure and scales about that cheep, forgot exactly. Got bullets and power from a local source, powder $2.95 and bullets for $2.50. Cheap, yes it was but when you only make $85 a week and have a wife and child, thats much. Before 6.5 brass got plentiful, I formed my brass from 308 cases and 7.7 from 30-06. Brings back memories.
Don't you need a special reforming die to make 6.5 from .308? On the other hand it's relatively easy to form 7.7 from 30-06 with the regular 7.7 die once the cases have been cut down. Even then the cases tend to stretch so I cut them a few thousandths less than the 2.27 max case length. Another thing that works for me is to take four or five gradual presses and go slowly when forming 7.7 instead of being in a hurry. It seems to produce a better more consistent 7.7 case.
 

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I just ran across the pictures and decided to post them. The first picture is of three cartridge cases - a 308, a 6.5x50 swadged and reformed case that has not been trimed and 6.5x50 Norma case. The second picture is the swadged die that reduced the base so it could be resized in a regular 6.5x50 full length sizing die.
 

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I have a set of dies Roy made. They work very well. The one problem I had was the case head was .004" to large to fully close the bolt. A drill press and emory paper at the case head solved that problem. Now when I shoot by Type 38 my cases don't swell. I have used .308 case and 7mm/08 cases. 260 Remington work the best. They are already 6.5mm.
In reality 260 Remington is 6.5/08. If they called it that it would have never sold.
 

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I have a set of dies Roy made. They work very well. The one problem I had was the case head was .004" to large to fully close the bolt. A drill press and emory paper at the case head solved that problem. Now when I shoot by Type 38 my cases don't swell. I have used .308 case and 7mm/08 cases. 260 Remington work the best. They are already 6.5mm.
In reality 260 Remington is 6.5/08. If they called it that it would have never sold.
Wish you had let me know. I always tried them before I sent them out. Could be I used a different brand of cases. I used Military Nato brass to try out the die on but that should have been harder brass than commercial. One remedy for what yours did is to take a peice of fine emery cloth over the pad of your index finger and twist the die back and forth to remove the slight ridge that is too sharp and pushing the brass instead of rolling over and reducing it. I also always run the 308 case through an 8x57 die or similar to put some taper in the 308 case to reduce the force it takes to run the 308 case through the swadge die.
 

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My first reloads fo9r 7,7 Japanese were made using Once fired 7,9 IMI (Israeli )1955 cases...Boxer. The Once fired cases sized just fine, enough of a body Bulge to centre properly with some Masking tape (1/4inch strip just in front of extractor groove.) Used 174grain .303 Brit.MkVII projies (FMJ) and subsequently took my first Wild Pig (boar) out in western Queensland in 1973 ( cross shoulder shot, 75 yards).

The rifle was(is) a "substituted Model" T99 (Packing-case stock, wood buttplate, welded safety knob, fixed aperture sights, etc. But a perfect Bore.

For ease of Manufacture, the 7,9mm ("8mm") Mauser case is Ideal; I still use .30/06 for my Commercial Manufacture 7,7 cases. I still have my 100 Israeli 7.9/7,7 cases in store ---now reduced to "Cast Lead Only", as they have had 20 reloads of FMJ (Neck size, with FLS at about 10 RL, and Anneal at every Five RLs.

Doc AV
 
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