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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What mil surp ammo is best to shoot thru your Mosin? Light Ball (147gr) or Heavy Ball (182gr)?

What nationality is best?


Finn Mosin M39 1942, antique 1897 Tula receiver

1942 Izzy 91/30 all match refurb by armory.

I assume ammo which shoots best thru one will not thru the other
 

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That has to be determined by the rifle. I've got some that love H.B. and some that love L.B. Some Czech, some Polish, some Russian and some Hungarian. I've got a B Barrel that is scary accurate with D166 loads with VN150 and mediocre with surp.
 

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That has to be determined by the rifle. I've got some that love H.B. and some that love L.B. Some Czech, some Polish, some Russian and some Hungarian. I've got a B Barrel that is scary accurate with D166 loads with VN150 and mediocre with surp.
+1 on that. I have several seemingly identical rifles (same year, manufacturer and condition) which shoot very differently with the same ammo. What you might want to consider though - is how much you shoot when you go to the range. The HBl will make you hurt a lot sooner than the LB ammo.
Besides that - I'd suggest that you buy a few pack of different types of ammo and check out what your rifle (and your shoulder) likes
 

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The Yugoslavian (PRVI PARTISAN, Serbia) 1976-1990's M76 with the famous M30 ball @ 182 grains is the best in my opinion. Not only is it the least corrosive of the bunch but deadly accurate and has the most kick of all 54r.
 

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Any of the late 70's or early 80's production (copper washed steel case) milsurp (available from some of our sponsors right now) are very good.
You can find Russian AND Bulgairian 147 grain both of which are quite good.
 

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This is off on a tangent, but does anyone have any information on the effectiveness of different bullet designs in soft tissue? Either first hand from ballistic tests or hunting wild hogs, or published data? I'm kind of interested in both the surplus ball and commercial soft point ammunition.
 

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FMJ or "ball" projectiles will not expand and tend to pass through where soft or hollow point will mushroom and cause a massive wound without passing through.
That's why soft/hollow point projectiles are banned in "legal" warfare...but then again so is .50cal banned against human targets outside of a protective shell like a vehicle and/or perhaps wall etc...so go figure.
 

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The Yugoslavian (PRVI PARTISAN, Serbia) 1976-1990's M76 with the famous M30 ball @ 182 grains is the best in my opinion. Not only is it the least corrosive of the bunch but deadly accurate and has the most kick of all 54r.
That stuff is great I can make 3 in groups at 200yrds with my '34 but someone thats a better shot probably could do better
 

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The best ammo? Your own handloads, using bullets of a diameter slightly over the diameter of your bore, with the proper seating of the bullet near the lands with fire-formed brass. I'm not trying to be a smart @33, but you won't do better than that!
Pat
 

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My 1944 Izzy pu loves Hungarian L/B but my 1945 M44 prefers heavy ball
ukrifleman
I will not fire any lacquered ammo in my M39's.

My M39's seem to prefer HB. I shoot Serb M30 and Prvi Partizan 182 gr FMJ, with equal results. I've fired Bulgarian, Russian, and Czech coppered steel case LB with about equal grouping, although the Czech does slightly tighter groups. However, the Czech steel case ammo paradoxically seals the worst, with carbon residue evident along the entire length of the case, not just at the neck as with the other steel case ammo.
I do not like the idea of powder blow by with corrosive primer residue getting into the bolt and receiver.

My 1928 counterbored M27 prefers Prvi Partizan 150 gr FMJ - LB. Since the bore has some pitting I do not shoot any corrosive ammo with it.
 

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Check our board sponsor's list up at the top of the forums, unless they are out I believe you can get late 70's Russian for around $200/$225 for 880 rnds delivered.
Look around, more than one of our sponsors has it for sale and they are all pretty close on price..remember, without them this forum is kaput.
 

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Hi! Shooting my M91/30 on the 100 and 200 meters I obtain better hits shooting 174gr bullets. It is to say I had not the opportunity to shoot the D166 ammo (200gr) on the 300 meters.
The best ammo? Your own handloads, using bullets of a diameter slightly over the diameter of your bore, with the proper seating of the bullet near the lands with fire-formed brass. I'm not trying to be a smart @33, but you won't do better than that!
Pat
Hi! I am sorry I forgotten to tell I handload my ammo... for me they are the best :thumbsup:
 

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I know this belongs in the "Ammo" section (I think ,right?) but I am gearing up to hand load 54r myself.
I need a ideal "jump" measurement along with a favorite powder amount and flavor....for light ball .311.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Personally, I would like to hand load all my ammunition. However, the budget to buy the proper tooling etc., is not there right now... and I really would like to learn a LOT more about it before jumping in.

The idea is to get an idea of what shoots best out of the rifles I have (M39 and 91/30 round) without issue. And see if I can be pointed into a direction as to where to buy the ammo.

So far, the info I have received has been quite beneficial. It has prevented the purchase of ammo which might not have been good shooting.

So, it seems go with the light ball for the 91/30 and heavy is better in the M39...
 
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