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CH4D may. I sent an e-mail a few years ago inquiring about their die set.

-My email-

On 5/12/2010 3:25 PM, - wrote:

Dear Sir/Ma'am,

I'm looking at buying 7.62 Nagant dies and have a few questions.

What dies are included in this set? I assume it includes FL sizing, expanding and seating. Does it also include a taper crimp die, and if not is one available for this caliber?

Is this set for original Nagant brass, or for resizing brass such as 32-20. (I'll be using 7.62 Fiocci and Hotshot brass)

Does the die set include a shellholder?

Steel or carbide?

Is this set ready to start reloading straight out of the box (unlike the Lee set which requires some cobbling to work)?

How much would shipping be to -?

Thanks for your time, I look forward to your response.

-Reply-

Yes, It is a 4 die set. I never figured out a way to close the case over the bullet with less. Made to accepted 7.62 Nagant specs. Several hundred people are using them without any problems.
 

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I am using a .30 Carbine Lee Loader (the style you use with a hammer.) I had to modify it and make a couple pieces from scratch but it works well. Very time consuming, though. I'm pretty fast but it still takes me about 1.5 hours to fully load 50 rounds.

FWIW I am using PPU brass. I have not figured out a way to recreate the weird factory case mouth crimp, if it's even possible. However I do not think it's necessary. I push a cast lead bullet into the case until the tip is flush with the mouth and then place the finished round into the depriming thing, and then hammer the sizing piece onto it. This squeezes it down so it will fit in the cylinder. Use the long punch to push it back out and you're done. At this point it will easily chamber and I have not had any length issues.

I should do a write up on this but I feel like most people would rather buy a die set for their press (and I don't blame them.)
 

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I use Ch4D dies. Great dies, great company. You will need to get there shell holder as well. The dies do not form a crimp like the over crimped factory stuff. Load data though can be a little crazy though. I have developed a few in the last couple of months that put a 110 gr RN or 115gr LRN round down the tube at 850 to 925 and don't destroy the brass. As far as brass goes the newest PPU with the groove is the best IMO.
 

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FWIW I am using PPU brass. I have not figured out a way to recreate the weird factory case mouth crimp, if it's even possible.
I haven't started reloading this caliber yet (I just got my Nagant (a 1939 Tula Refurb) a few months ago, and the weather around here has definitely not been conducive to going out and shooting it), but I have been reading up and collecting the stuff that will allow me to do it.

I plan to use my M1 Carbine die set for most of the work (My reloaded Carbine rounds fit just fine in the cylinder, save for the lack of a rim and the incorrect bullet seating depth), and I have also picked up a RCBS #1 shellholder (originally made for.32-20) to use with it.

Info: The .32-20 shellholder I purchased is just half a RCH (the abbreviation for a slightly obscene term for a very fine measurement) too tight above the rim cutout to put the military Nagant cases into, but both the Fiocci and the PPU cases fit into it just fine. If you are looking for a shellholder, I suggest you don't use military brass for test fitting to find out if the rounds fit.

I now just need to either shoot enough reloadable cases (or buy some) to get started.

In order to get a functional case mouth crimp to fit inside the barrel recess, I understand that more than a few people who 'improvise' their reloading setup get the crimp by removing the expander ball and stem from a .223 sizing die, and run their loaded cases into it. It looks like it will work for me as well. This is also in my plans.
 

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What I found is that the case mouth crimp is not necessary, AT ALL. I did not shorten my PPU brass or anything, just simply fired the factory load and put new components in. The case mouth still fits fine inside the barrel and the gun cycles perfectly. My theory is that it is MY gun alone that this works with (since the barrel has some severe rust pitting) OR the case mouth crimp is there to build pressure. In either case, all 50-ish reloaded rounds I've shot so far have worked perfectly.
 

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I am using the 30 carbine dies. RCBS brand that I bought at the local gun show for $10. Seating die has a replacement screw to seat the bullet deeper. For a crimp I made a die that can crimp very slightly if I do my part right.
I load the primer,powder and the bullet first and size later. Using good but not excessive amount of Imperial sizing wax. Then I stop sizing when it fits the cylinder nicely. PPu brass and Nagant RCBS shellholder. Also using 223 brass with the 223 shellholder. Wish I have some miniature lathe for it.
Anyone else is using Herco besides me ?
Paul
 

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I've been using Lee 30 carbine dies on my press to load for my Nagant for about 3 years now. It took a little fiddling around to make everything work but is quick and easy now. I use black powder in mine for the WWI look. It is much easier the clean the Nagant than my other BP cartridge revolver because of the gas seal.
 

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I'm using Trail Boss and the recipe for a 90g cast bullet in 32-20.

I haven't tried using 223 brass. I have access to plenty of it, and have read up on the process, but it looks like slightly more work than I want to do right at the moment.
 

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Since it is all I have available at this time, and other powder types are pretty scarce in my neck of the woods, does anybody have any pet loads in Unique for their Nagants? I presently have 100 grain cast, and 85 and 100 grain jacketed .312" bullets to use in it.
 

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I'm using Trail Boss and the recipe for a 90g cast bullet in 32-20.

I haven't tried using 223 brass. I have access to plenty of it, and have read up on the process, but it looks like slightly more work than I want to do right at the moment.
It's fairly easy using 223 brass. Cut it to the length, size it in few strokes . Then file off that little "magnum" belt that forms at the bottom until it chambers. That's where a lathe can come handy. I am using a drill and file, which is taking forever. Other than that belt it's actually not a difficult process.
 

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I tried making a couple cases out of 223 tonight. Mixed results although I formed it using my .30 Lee Loader. I removed the belt using a drill and file too. Makes for some unique triangle shaped case mouths! So I have two cases that will chamber empty, but expand way too much when I seat a .314 cast bullet and will only go about halfway into the cylinder. It seems that the .223 brass at the case mouth is much thicker than my PPU Nagant brass.

I will have to play around a little more. My supply of 223/5.56 range pickup brass is free and virtually unlimited so if I can build one that will chamber and copy it, I'll be happy.
 

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You have to run it through the sizing die to make it fit. Empty sizing die with no decapping pin. Go slowly back and fort,make sure it doesn't get stuck in it. Lubricate. .314 is a fat bullet it would do the same even in PPU for me. PPU casing can rip the rim easy.
 

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Since it is all I have available at this time, and other powder types are pretty scarce in my neck of the woods, does anybody have any pet loads in Unique for their Nagants? I presently have 100 grain cast, and 85 and 100 grain jacketed .312" bullets to use in it.
I don't have the link but if you search on youtube for reloading nagant pistol you'll find an old man with a scratchy voice describe how he took the Lee set and then a 30 carbine expander internal part to do all this. He does mention how much Unique he uses in the video.

BTW, I'm doing this method along with running the sizing die at the end. I did add a small roll crimp using the bullet seating die to get the mouth reduced and it indexes fine. I am doing this right now
Decap
size (no pin). 1 turn out from touching.
expand
prime
charge with powder
seat bullet (using grafs nagant bullet which is basically a cylindar) about 1/16" below mouth
size (about 3 turns out I think).
For the final sizing, I start almost all the way out and then put a bullet in and raise it, then I turn the sizing die in till I feel resistance, lower bullet, and then add a turn. Case is lubed. I then size it.
I have cylindar removed from Nagant and check if it will go in without resistance into my smallest cylinder. If it won't, I then keep turning sizing die in.
Once I get the right amount, I go an extra 1/2 turn in on sizing die.

I use Trailboss 3.0grains
 

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I load 7.62x38r cases using a M1 Carbine Lee loader with a homemade seating stem made out of a bolt. They load pretty easy using the Lee loader. I have a Lee Nagant die set and have loaded 38r cases with it but it is a pain to do. I modded the seating stem to seat the bullets into the cases. I used .309 DEWC jacketed bullets. I did also load some home cast Lee TL .314 90 gr SWC bullets sized to .311 to get them into the cases even at that i had to expand the case mouths way to much. The brass only lasted a few reloading s. The starting loads i used with 38r gas seal brass was 1.7 gr Bulleye, 2 gr Reddot and 2.7 gr of unique. All these loads shot better than any store bought i have shot. If you are careful you can do a light crimp with the Lee Loader.

I use the lee M95 Nagant die set for loading 32-20 cases. My M95 barrel slugs out at .312 using 32-20 brass i am able to load my home cast 90 gr bullets sized to .314. I use the same starting loads as the 38r the cases but i seat the flush with the top of the case like you would seat a wad cutter. I also tried using more powder and seating the bullets max COL but they did not shoot as well and i was not burning all the powder. 3.5 gr of Trail Boss did shoot well with my 90 gr bullets seated to 1.5 COL.
 

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I've just started working with once-fired PRVI brass and the C4HD die set. $100 for the four (!) die set: resize, expand, seat, crimp. I ended up throwing my Lee set away; too much hassle, too many broken and stuck cases. The CH4D set will seat beneath the neck and you can customize the diameter for .308 or higher when you order. Nice folks, can't recommend them enough. With the PRVI brass and these dies I can get a proper gas seal in my test loads. I'll be trying to work up a powder load over the next few weeks.

The original factory loads are taper crimped, not bottlenecked like current manufacture. Factory manuals lists a 103gr TC going 900fps or so and CIE lists MAP at 11k PSI. I'd be careful in experimentation, playing with Quickload it's easy enough to go 50% over MAP with simple "it should work" loadings.
 
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