Yeah, I wouldn't write off the Ruger either.
In order to make a stock MkII or III competitive for target shooting, you have to install a few aftermarket parts.
https://www.volquartsen.com/vc//pages/public/ListItems.jsp?id=19
Mainly, an accurizing kit like what you see there. You could probably find that stuff for sale online from somewhere in Europe or ship it from America. The dollar is a joke right now compared to the Euro, so it should be plenty cheap for you.
Actually, don't buy an entire kit. Just buy these parts individually (and cheaper).
The trigger. A factory MkIII or MkII "slabsides" competition model comes with a trigger with an overtravel stop built in. It is a PAIN to adjust it, but it can be adjusted to make a pretty decent trigger pull.
Now, one of those Volquartsen triggers has both an overtravel stop and a pre-travel adjustment. That takes out a LOT of creep and slop and produces a very good trigger pull when you get it adjusted. And the VQ triggers are easy to adjust, not like the factory Ruger.
At a minimum, get the trigger. The new style one, not the stainless one. The older stainless one doesn't have a pre-travel screw. And get the polished target sear. That one took me about 45 minutes to install the first time, with tools. Now I can install them with just my fingers. I've done several of my friends' Rugers up for them.
I wouldn't waste money on the target hammer. I've never noticed a big benefit from it.
After those, consider the exact edge extractor. Sometimes a MkII jams with something I call "the Ruger stovepipe". The EEE might prevent that.
After that, consider a set of aftermarket grips. The Volthane grips are good. I like the wood grips from Herrets with the adjustable palm shelf. They cost the same as the Volthanes (provided you buy them from somebody other than Herrets!).
If you get the grips, you might also want to get an extended mag release IF you buy a MkII. If you get a MkIII, you won't need it. My advice, try for a MKII.
And disassembly? Yeah, everyone has a rough first time with it.
My advice? Only disassemble the gun ONE time.
Sounds crazy, right? That one time you disassemble it will be to install the parts I just recommended.
Put it back together, then NEVER take it apart again.
Go to an automotive supply store and buy a cheap spray can of either brake or carbuerator cleaner. Costs about $1.50 here. Should be pretty cheap there too. Open the action, lock the slide to the rear. Remove the grips. Spray that stuff in the ejection port, down into the frame, all over. Aside from the grips, the entire gun is STEEL and those chemicals will NOT harm the gun.
I swear to you, the gun will come out just as clean as the first time you took it out of the wrapper. That black crud will just run out the bottom of the mag well.
Use a coated cable pull-through or similiar thing to run patches through the barrel and you are done.
NEVER disassemble the gun again. You won't need to.
And you'll still be spending less money than those other guns you are considering.
There is a picture of my Ruger, next to my competition Pardini. The Ruger has the VQ trigger, sear, hammer, and Clark oversized hammer bushing (also a good idea for taking out trigger sloppiness!). Those are the Herrets wood grips and of course, a red dot sight for bullseye shooting.
The Ruger doesn't look exactly like that now, as I have polished the matte stainless finish with a Dremel moto-tool to a mirror-like brightness.
In order to make a stock MkII or III competitive for target shooting, you have to install a few aftermarket parts.
https://www.volquartsen.com/vc//pages/public/ListItems.jsp?id=19
Mainly, an accurizing kit like what you see there. You could probably find that stuff for sale online from somewhere in Europe or ship it from America. The dollar is a joke right now compared to the Euro, so it should be plenty cheap for you.
Actually, don't buy an entire kit. Just buy these parts individually (and cheaper).
The trigger. A factory MkIII or MkII "slabsides" competition model comes with a trigger with an overtravel stop built in. It is a PAIN to adjust it, but it can be adjusted to make a pretty decent trigger pull.
Now, one of those Volquartsen triggers has both an overtravel stop and a pre-travel adjustment. That takes out a LOT of creep and slop and produces a very good trigger pull when you get it adjusted. And the VQ triggers are easy to adjust, not like the factory Ruger.
At a minimum, get the trigger. The new style one, not the stainless one. The older stainless one doesn't have a pre-travel screw. And get the polished target sear. That one took me about 45 minutes to install the first time, with tools. Now I can install them with just my fingers. I've done several of my friends' Rugers up for them.
I wouldn't waste money on the target hammer. I've never noticed a big benefit from it.
After those, consider the exact edge extractor. Sometimes a MkII jams with something I call "the Ruger stovepipe". The EEE might prevent that.
After that, consider a set of aftermarket grips. The Volthane grips are good. I like the wood grips from Herrets with the adjustable palm shelf. They cost the same as the Volthanes (provided you buy them from somebody other than Herrets!).
If you get the grips, you might also want to get an extended mag release IF you buy a MkII. If you get a MkIII, you won't need it. My advice, try for a MKII.
And disassembly? Yeah, everyone has a rough first time with it.
My advice? Only disassemble the gun ONE time.
Sounds crazy, right? That one time you disassemble it will be to install the parts I just recommended.
Put it back together, then NEVER take it apart again.
Go to an automotive supply store and buy a cheap spray can of either brake or carbuerator cleaner. Costs about $1.50 here. Should be pretty cheap there too. Open the action, lock the slide to the rear. Remove the grips. Spray that stuff in the ejection port, down into the frame, all over. Aside from the grips, the entire gun is STEEL and those chemicals will NOT harm the gun.
I swear to you, the gun will come out just as clean as the first time you took it out of the wrapper. That black crud will just run out the bottom of the mag well.
Use a coated cable pull-through or similiar thing to run patches through the barrel and you are done.
NEVER disassemble the gun again. You won't need to.
And you'll still be spending less money than those other guns you are considering.

There is a picture of my Ruger, next to my competition Pardini. The Ruger has the VQ trigger, sear, hammer, and Clark oversized hammer bushing (also a good idea for taking out trigger sloppiness!). Those are the Herrets wood grips and of course, a red dot sight for bullseye shooting.
The Ruger doesn't look exactly like that now, as I have polished the matte stainless finish with a Dremel moto-tool to a mirror-like brightness.