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Discussion Starter #81
Interesting results and testing Rob.

You have any method to how you tighten your action screws as well?
I locked them both at 25in-lbs.
I think it's safe to say that this barrel wrap is strongly influencing barrel harmonics in my case.
I honestly didn't expect to see Barnaul 148gr to perform that well, but I clocked it on my Doppler radar and it shot with standard deviation of 13.5 fps, which isn't bad at all.
I will have to shoot it more at extended ranges to see how this ammo will deliver. 174gr will have more advantage over it since it has better BC, but just for kicks, i want to see if i can stay on IPSC plate with 148gr at 700yds.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
That's some AWESOME shooting, Rob! Impressive groups with any rifle.
I'm just a trigger puller man, rifle does the job. Tweaking it with shims and wrap helped for sure.
I'm very excited and all, but i will have to shoot more at the extended ranges - i want to see this rifle can hold 1 moa across the board.
I think Raupleminze's accurizing kit is worth every penny - it makes it easy and clean. You should see my shims i made from monster can...hahaha!
 

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The illustration above is from Yur'yev's "Sport Shooting" book BTW. I'm not convinced that barrel wraps were used extensively by Soviet Snipers (probably more by post WWII competitive shooters), but who knows for sure? Regardless, they're a non-permanent change, so no milsurps harmed.

IMO, the shim setup commonly used for Mosins by milsurp enthusiasts nowadays owes more to the Finnish approach than to the Soviet approach, at least judging from the many refurbs I've examined. I've seen Soviet refurbs with shims in the magazine pockets and sometimes in the tang area, but never one with a shim on the flat behind the recoil lug.

I don't think the Soviets even tried to float the barrel, but rather just tried to keep the action screws from bottoming out, the magazine from being too hard against the bottom of the receiver, and tried to get the barrel somewhere close to fitting correctly in the forestock and handguard.

Regardless of that fact, the Finn system consistently works in my experience. As mentioned above, Mosins are very much individuals, and each has its likes and dislikes. But a person who has little leisure time could "cut to the chase", dispense with doing a lot of experimentation, and just shim the action until the barrel just floats off the forestock its entire length with the action screws tightened and be pretty sure of getting most of the gun's potential. Not too high, as that will cause interference on top instead of on the bottom. That and a barrel wrap at the front barrel band area.
 

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The illustration above is from Yur'yev's "Sport Shooting" book BTW. I'm not convinced that barrel wraps were used extensively by Soviet Snipers (probably more by post WWII competitive shooters), but who knows for sure? Regardless, they're a non-permanent change, so no milsurps harmed.

IMO, the shim setup commonly used for Mosins by milsurp enthusiasts nowadays owes more to the Finnish approach than to the Soviet approach, at least judging from the many refurbs I've examined. I've seen Soviet refurbs with shims in the magazine pockets and sometimes in the tang area, but never one with a shim on the flat behind the recoil lug.

I don't think the Soviets even tried to float the barrel, but rather just tried to keep the action screws from bottoming out, the magazine from being too hard against the bottom of the receiver, and tried to get the barrel somewhere close to fitting correctly in the forestock and handguard.

Regardless of that fact, the Finn system consistently works in my experience. As mentioned above, Mosins are very much individuals, and each has its likes and dislikes. But a person who has little leisure time could "cut to the chase", dispense with doing a lot of experimentation, and just shim the action until the barrel just floats off the forestock its entire length with the action screws tightened and be pretty sure of getting most of the gun's potential. Not too high, as that will cause interference on top instead of on the bottom. That and a barrel wrap at the front barrel band area.
Good points.

I prefer to use high Temp. auto gasket material for a barrel wrap. I put a coat of RIG on the barrel under the material, which is not porous and does not attract moisture. I think the folks using wraps long ago oiled the cloth first. I fear rust forming under the wrap if linen and no oil or grease?

Setting the barreled action in the stock, what has worked for me is to get the action in the stock and get the screws in kinda loose. Then point the muzzle at the ceiling and drop the butt plate on the carpet. Keep the muzzle up. Tighten the forward screw first, pretty darn tight, then the tang screw almost as tight. This should help minimize shots to get the stock settled in the stock snug. Check or mark the screws fairly often because just a little looseness will spread the groups big time.

Good shooting Rob and good rifle. I had no luck with S&B match. I love Soviet Extra Match in the yellow box. It is rated to produce groups at less than 6 cm, 20 shots at 300yds. I assume they use a heavy test barrel?? The lot's rating is printed on the can.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I hit little bump on the road here. I discovered that my windage turret is slipping from recoil. Alex thread from 2012 was big help! Good DIY guide, but I decided to add little bit of vodka to the screws, so they will respond better!
Ha! Since i had windage done (bent washer per Alex directions) i went and reshaped washer on the elevation turret as well, so i don't have to chase my tail again.
Worst part of this was to put those little set screws in the middle back into their slots...I replenished grease too. Now I have to see how it holds up!

Scope1.jpg
Scope2.jpg
Scope3.jpg
 

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Rob, I hope that fix works.... there is another internal issue that can lead to recoil reticle movement. The turret screws are in brass fixtures that move the reticle element. If they are worn, screw not tight in the female element, and allow movement then they need replacement.

I had this issue and it was internal not the turret spring.

When looking thru the scope and adjusting worn guides will show a jump up/down when adjusting and not a smooth movement...this will happen on the initial input thru the turret. The 'jump' you see can also happen under recoil to bad effect.
 

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Nice shooting Rob :thumbsup:

This has panned out into a really interesting thread, plenty of excellent advice and observations.
 

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Man when I got brave enough to take my PU scope apart, the Distance turret had enough grease for another scope alone.

It would just bleed cosmoline and grease in summer sun. But the spring on it was so flat the turret would spin from 2 to 1 setting after 2-3 shots.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Rob, I hope that fix works.... there is another internal issue that can lead to recoil reticle movement. The turret screws are in brass fixtures that move the reticle element. If they are worn, screw not tight in the female element, and allow movement then they need replacement.

I had this issue and it was internal not the turret spring.

When looking thru the scope and adjusting worn guides will show a jump up/down when adjusting and not a smooth movement...this will happen on the initial input thru the turret. The 'jump' you see can also happen under recoil to bad effect.
Great feedback. Fortunately, looks like i still have smooth motion when moving turrets. Elevation is holding up perfectly, but i had to take apart windage again and redo-it. I put more bent on that "spring washer". Went outside, shot box of ammo and it seems to be holding fine. I will just watch it closely. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Man when I got brave enough to take my PU scope apart, the Distance turret had enough grease for another scope alone.

It would just bleed cosmoline and grease in summer sun. But the spring on it was so flat the turret would spin from 2 to 1 setting after 2-3 shots.
Ha! Yes, cosmoline was all over the turrets (inside). I carefully clean that out and put on it fresh coat!
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Nice shooting Rob :thumbsup:

This has panned out into a really interesting thread, plenty of excellent advice and observations.
Yes, this PU Sniper turnout to be gift which keeps on giving! Hahahah!
Can't wait to add Tula Sniper to collection now!
 

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IMG_0247.JPG
Great feedback. Fortunately, looks like i still have smooth motion when moving turrets. Elevation is holding up perfectly, but i had to take apart windage again and redo-it. I put more bent on that "spring washer". Went outside, shot box of ammo and it seems to be holding fine. I will just watch it closely. Fingers crossed.
Great...the matching scope for my PU has that 'jump' that is in the mechanism... they didn't check that at the arsenal obviously.. I have a few PU scopes so just swaped it out...I'll get around to repairing it someday.

Reloading is fun for these girls too...each one of my snipers likes a different COAL...my reload on the left next to a 182 gn. PPU match round.
This is a 3.030 coal that the PU likes in .311 Hornady 174 gn FMJBT...this with 43.5 gns of reloader 15. First time with the reloader so will play with the charge. There is a tad over 1/4 in contact in the neck so they load fine.
With that round I consistently get .5 MOA at 100 yards. benched....(if my eyeballs are calibrated that day)
 

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Discussion Starter #93
View attachment 3710085

Great...the matching scope for my PU has that 'jump' that is in the mechanism... they didn't check that at the arsenal obviously.. I have a few PU scopes so just swaped it out...I'll get around to repairing it someday.

Reloading is fun for these girls too...each one of my snipers likes a different COAL...my reload on the left next to a 182 gn. PPU match round.
This is a 3.030 coal that the PU likes in .311 Hornady 174 gn FMJBT...this with 43.5 gns of reloader 15. First time with the reloader so will play with the charge. There is a tad over 1/4 in contact in the neck so they load fine.
With that round I consistently get .5 MOA at 100 yards. benched....(if my eyeballs are calibrated that day)
I have primers and brass and few pounds of H4350. Do you have reloading data for H4350 and .311 Hornady 174 gn FMJBT by any chance?
 

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View attachment 3710085

Great...the matching scope for my PU has that 'jump' that is in the mechanism... they didn't check that at the arsenal obviously.. I have a few PU scopes so just swaped it out...I'll get around to repairing it someday.

Reloading is fun for these girls too...each one of my snipers likes a different COAL...my reload on the left next to a 182 gn. PPU match round.
This is a 3.030 coal that the PU likes in .311 Hornady 174 gn FMJBT...this with 43.5 gns of reloader 15. First time with the reloader so will play with the charge. There is a tad over 1/4 in contact in the neck so they load fine.
With that round I consistently get .5 MOA at 100 yards. benched....(if my eyeballs are calibrated that day)
Glad to hear you you're giving the Reloader-15 a try :thumbsup:
 
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