Not a dumb question at all. It's marked FTR:This may be a dumb question, is it matching and marked FTR Doc?
Thanks! That worked like a charm. The stock did not drop however I was able to gently pull it off. I can now order the needed part, I have tighented the sight guard screw up and here are some photos to see if I have what I think were called Drawls? If anyone notices any other parts missing let me know. Put some break free lube on that sticky trigger and it's no longer sticky.Grab the forend at the mag well. Hold it upside down over a heavily padded surface
A hard gun case should do it.
lift the rifle off the padding just barely.
Give the underside of the butt socket a light, but sharp rap with a plastic or hard rubber mallet.
The entire rifle will fall into the padding.
Do not use any type of metal mallet or hammer etc. even a half pound brass might distort the screw boss.
If you like, you can put the screw into it should it make you feel better.
I put it back together already but I did not tighten anytigng down too much as I will be getting that rest and spring to put in next week. But as to the Linseed oil, it looks like no one's applied any since it's initial oiling of the wood before the stock was sent to the warehouse stock. Should I oil it now? Just not sure.You mean recoil plates at the draws?
Today, no. Just keep an eye on the compression marks though. Once those dark areas begin to compress then is the time to start thinking about it.
Meanwhile, when reassembling your rifle and installing the trigger guard, do it in proper order.
Start the screws but leave them loose until both are aligned.
Snug the small rear screw first. Then torque the King/Main screw “gorilla fkn tight”.
That loads tension on the small snugged screw and it ain’t goin’ nowhere. More small screw heads are buggered by trying to loosen them while the king screw is still tight. Don’t be that guy!
Also, when dropping the action into the wood, it goes directly down and squeezed into position. No tilting or wriggling. Let everything find its own way back home.
Also, if the time comes to install recoil pads there is no “All ya gotta do is….”.
It’s a very precise process of wood removal while maintaining proper angles. A lot of dry fitting to get equal bearing on both sides.
It’s a job not to be taken lightly.
Some of us have seen posts where the OP states “I put in recoil pads and the stock still fkn split wide open!! HELP ME??”
They missed something somewhere.
Again, don’t be that guy.
Linseed oil the wood before putting it all back together. Keep your King Screw tight. It’s fine for occasional shooting.
There’s no better time than now. Inside and out, raw linseed, soft cloth. Rub on, allow to soak, rub off. Never let it congeal or go hard on the surface. Don’t rub corners to hard, you’ll round them off and lose definition of the lines.I put it back together already but I did not tighten anytigng down too much as I will be getting that rest and spring to put in next week. But as to the Linseed oil, it looks like no one's applied any since it's initial oiling of the wood before the stock was sent to the warehouse stock. Should I oil it now? Just not sure.
C’mon now Plonker…how many times has that senseless bit of wood been discussed? It doesn’t matter!
Coachwood stocks omitted this piece, it’s correct.