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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Condition SMLE I always wanted. I am curious about the barrel band. it looks like it's brass and used to be as dark in color as the rest of the metal parts but might have lost it's finish. Any insights on this? Its the only thing that bugs me. The Trigger is sticky too. Pull it back it's slow to re set. What is the fix for this?

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The brass barrel band was common on Lithgows during the war years, and originally did have a blackened finish I think.
The rifle is a JJCo assembled from spare parts, so if the trigger is the only thing that's sticky, you've done OK.
In my early collecting days I bought one of these in 22 cal thinking it was a brand new factory unissued rifle. I had to knock the bolt out with a mallet, the bolt would barely close on a 22 cartridge due to poor headspace, the extractor claw was a ground-down 303 claw, the sights weren't vertical, and the trigger creep was phenomenal.
It was a truly beautiful rifle though.
View attachment 3975179
Tell me more about the spare parts story? The bolt and receiver have matching serial numbers. It was made in 1941, how did it avoid any hard use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When Lithgow stopped production JJco bought up all of the stock of finished rifles, millions of component parts and (allegedly) even the workshop benches and stools)

Once everything was back in the US they assembled all of the components into completed rifles (with NO quality control) and sold them as new rifles.
They are a US assembly of mixed Lithgow parts but could not realistically be classed as a Lithgow rifle.

How much are they worth as new compared to the vales of the war used lithgows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That’s very difficult to answer. Some people would pay top dollars for a rifle that’s totally worn out, but has a military history and a collector value. Others want a shooter which is in as new condition and care little for serial numbers and originality. I have a few “shooters” in my safe, not overly valuable, the rest are for visual enjoyment and an investment.
I definatly wanted a new condition rifle. I don't think I'd get that with a war issued one. It was listed however as a Lithgow made rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
JJCO was most often stamped in very small letters on the flat of the charger bridge where the bridge is attached to the right side of the receiver.
There is no JJCO stamp there or at the end of the barrel. Were they all marked that way with no exceptions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Photos of the numbers. What story does this tell? As for removing the bolt and looking to the rear, I looked. Not sure what I am looking to see?

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Why are there any mint 1941 Lithgows?.......When conscripts were training with limbs cut from trees in March 1942. ........and had never fired a 303 ,nor had a rifle issued to them until they landed in Port Moresby?......I suspect the new guns were in a reserve to guard a political elite in Melbourne as they loaded all their valuables on ship to flee to the USA.
I am sure they exist but have to be as rare as WWII Japanese Conscientious objectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
In removing the bolt & looking toward to the front of the sear you can see the copper blocks on either side of the sear......hopefully as in the photo,if that’s what you’re asking.
Cheer’s.
I looked and could not see any copper but I saw green as if copper oxidized. Sun was on its way down so could not capture it on film. Will try in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Plonker, you sold that one in the WTS forum right? I think I messaged you about it after buying this one. I bought mine for what you sold yours for. They command a pretty good price parts gun or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Going back to Post #1 ...
I can see the receiver PAA number in photo 4 and the bolt PAA number under the bolt handle in photo 5 but can't see if they match.
These numbers were stamped by the armourer who originally matched and fitted the bolt to the receiver, so if they match (and were not bodgied by JJCo) then you at least have a properly fitted bolt. I suspect yours was originally a barrelled receiver (which is great), to which were then added the requisite parts.
As long as the receiver is well fitted to the wood (the so-called draws) you should end up with a good shooter. The fitting of the wood is both a science and a Dark Art, and the subject of many Enfield textbook chapters.
They DO! I just checked. And yes the wood to metal fit is pretty good too I have no complaints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
"HV" (high Velocity, sighted for the "New:" Mk7 round)
"SC" (Short cone throat difference for the MkVII round).
I have similar markings, but that seems to have a "JJ&CO" over-stamped on them sideways which mine dont.
I have 4 rows of charecters:
L
HV
SC
MA 41
further forward on the sight base right next to the pivot is a really tiny repitition of the (matching) serial number of the action bolt & barrel
View attachment 3975682
Can you please do me a favor?
a pic of the bottom metal showing the area by the main screw.
Mine is witness marked & staked, this indicates a lot more care than a "reassembled bucket gun" & I'm curious if its "normal" or unique.
Thanks.
I'd need a photo of what you need a photo of? Ir do you just want me to take the top guard off and take a photo like I see above?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Perfect, thanks.
Yours has the strake (punch) mark to "lock the screw"
But not the witness mark (line) to show where to lock it for consistent torque.
From the numbers that match and th info posted here I figure I got a rifle that was sold to JJCO as a barrled action with the matching bolt and they put it all together. I think I have a good shooter, I think I got really lucky in that reguard. Would you agree?
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
So I started to take my Enfield apart because the rear sight guard is loose. I want to tighten that screw. I got all the screws removed to allow the forestock to come off but I think because it's all new condition and probably was never taken apart it does not seem to want to come out. I would just assume give up and not break anything but I noticed my gun is totally missing the forend rest and sping. Enfield #1 MK III Forend Rest and Spring Good

I will want to have that replaced but I will probably need the stock to come off for that anyway. Any advice on removing the forstock? Is there a place I shoudl tap with a mallet for example?
 
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