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What’s with the hidden message in the second photo??
That’s very difficult to answer. Some people would pay top dollars for a rifle that’s totally worn out, but has a military history and a collector value. Others want a shooter which is in as new condition and care little for serial numbers and originality. I have a few “shooters” in my safe, not overly valuable, the rest are for visual enjoyment and an investment.How much are they worth as new compared to the vales of the war used lithgows?
Biden stuck out immediately, the rest sort of fell into place.No, I won't mention the first word but the last two say "Joe" and "Biden".![]()
The parts are all made at Lithgow, that’s a start. It’s just the location of assembly that is up for debate? Is there a JJCo stamp anywhere on the rifle.?I definatly wanted a new condition rifle. I don't think I'd get that with a war issued one. It was listed however as a Lithgow made rifle.
Can’t say for sure, but I’d assume it would be visible.Nothing like that on the exposed metal. Would it be under the wood by any chance?
Indeed, some of the best rifles in Australia are JJco marked, stamped but luckily never left home.Some were complete rifles.
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Not many do have a line there, centre punch yes. Line no.Perfect, thanks.
Yours has the strake (punch) mark to "lock the screw"
But not the witness mark (line) to show where to lock it for consistent torque.
Plenty of Lithgow rifles get used without plates, the factory sent out about 150000 of them.We simply can' have you being Happy . That won't do Plonker. Sell the rifle to me and gain salvation. LOL. It sounds like your rifle is same thing mine is but I think you have recoil pads and mine doesn't. Thus you can shoot it and I can't shoot mine. I knew that lack of recoil pad scenario when I bought mine so I've turned the page and don't dwell on it. I bought a fantasy rifle.
I was more responding to your comment saying that you can’t shoot it.Anthony...mine didn't get them and the reason is its a bitzer as I articulated in detail above. I think you missed that post.
Milprileb, I do recall discussion about that. I thought the “safety issues to the shooter” idea was shut down? I‘m no expert, but my understanding was that the plates were there to simply increase the life of the draws. They are still subjected to the same forces, with or without plates, just the pressure bearing surface is enlarged once fitted and therefore increasing the life. The same rule would apply with your rifle not having them, if the fit up is tight to the lugs on the action, the screws tight, the forend can’t go anywhere. Over time however, that timber will compress and then the problems may start. Unsafe to fire, I don’t think so. Having said all that, if I had a mint, untouched Lithgow with no plates, I probably wouldn’t use it. Yours being a rifle that’s most likely put together from parts, with an un-numbered forend, I’d have a go. Maybe find a second hand Lithgow forend with plates, take some time to fit it up to your rifle and put the original in the cupboard. My thoughts, 🤷♂️🤷♂️Anthony, I distinctly remember years ago on this very board caution to not shoot if the recoil pads were missing and talk of fore end splitting. In fact talk of safety issues to the shooter. Now if this is internet myth and no damage to my rifle nor me is pending , I'll shoot my rifle. My reluctance here is based on "fact" presented on this board concerning lack of pads and damage that follows.
Anyone know the bottom line here ???
Is there a date on the forend?Here's a pic of my 1943 Lithgow without recoil plates. It was FTR'd at Lithgow in 1955 and still didn't have plates fitted.
You can see how the timber has compressed slightly (perhaps 0.5mm). If it gets any worse I may be tempted to glue some small shims in there.
View attachment 3976602
Beautiful clear stamps. Obviously it’s marked FTR.