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· Silver Bullet member
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Probably way cheaper to buy a Armscor / Rock Island Armory 1911 clone. Years ago some Philippines made .45s were junk but today that company builds excellent pistols at very reasonable prices. If you consider the cost of putting a good quality 1911 together from parts you'd spend way more. And even using the cheapest possible, likely problematic, parts kit there would be minimal savings over a RRA out of the box.

If i was buying one today (but I spent $$$ on my originally $150 Colt LW Commander 38 Super - learned the hard way) I'd buy one fully loaded, the biggest bargain considering the cost of upgraded parts and fitting for a 1911.

A top quality or competition pistol is another matter, expensive and must be built by an expert.
 

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(1) I wouldn't buy a hundred dollar bill from SARCO if they only charged $89.95.

(2) In my misspent youth I put together three ersatz M1911A1 pistols from parts--and if you're not a gunsmith it ain't as easy as assembling Legos. I agree with previous posters who urge purchasing a low end factory pistol.

IMHO an even better buy would be an Argentine Model 1927, if the price was right. In my experience these pistols are every bit as good as a USGI .45.
 

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Unfortunately they are getting nearkly as expensive as a USGI 1911A1. Still kicking myself for not buying cheap 1927s when they were available. Did make up for it some with a bunch of Ballisters.
 

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I started buy the slide kit and the frame parts from sportsmans guide and now i need to get an essex frame to fit and assemble it. Its going to cost more than buying a used or even a new 1911 but i'm going to learn all about a 1911 when i'm done.

I did my own work on my norinco already by installing a new barrel, full length guide rod and fitting the national match barrel bushing too. Now the pistol shoots clover leafs everytime no matter who shoots it, its that good. I fitted the barrel bushing so there wa no spring when it was in full battery or when it was in the loading mode. It has to hinge with no spring or deflection yet when its in full battery there can be no movement in the barrel at the bushing thats the key to accuracy.

I did purchase the 1911/1911a1 big book and the armorers video too. While its not an over the shoulder hands on education its better than nothing.

I'm a car/truck/4x4 mechanic, a class A machine builder/erector, I built cnc machines for the m1 abrams tank(chrysler), I built 155mm howitzers for the US Army. I changed the barrel on my 98k mauser so really if i take my time and do it right it will work flawlessly. I built machines that you touch everyday what they make.(disc brakes, brake drums, torque converters, pistons, tractor parts, dozer parts(cat), Pratt & whitney jet engines, GE jet engines, airlines, Gunite Kelsey hayes brakes, nasa, US army, US navy, oil industry) i've done it all. With the accuracy to the .00001" when there cutting. You think guns are hard? Its a matter of learning.

Now i want to build my own 1911 from the ground up in 45acp,first its going to be a plain jane, no frills, bells or whistles 1911. I already know that education can be costly. If this goes well my next build will be a 1911 in 9mm. (maybe)

My best buys for 1911's so far are my norinco for $300 and my new AO army ww2 copy for $389.
 

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6 Posts
I have an AO frame (the older kind) and was thinking of using it to build a pistol. I had originally sold the slide, barrel, and a couple other parts once I discovered the quality problems (I just wasn't aware when I originally purchased it), but lately I've seriously been considering building.

Is this really worth it?
 
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