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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
slightly polish... then molybdenum sulfate the action / bottom of bolt contacts in your photo....
its a hunting gun and in the field we concentrate on the shot this little aggravation wont be noticed or concentrated on like at the bench or in the gun room...
i had a very accurate beautiful whitworth American field love it but the more i fooled with the bolt the sticker it felt in the at the range / bench.....
traded it in Roanoke VA for a Husky with org. factory most "figured wood" i have seen....

sometimes we focus on the one fly in the ointment but not the whole usable jar thats left!
Could you name a product that includes molybdenum sulfate?
I could leave it alone, and I should. But although it is a hunting rifle, I went to a lot of effort in finding a 1640 (seemingly the only one in the UK as far as I've found...) after a lot of research. One of the many reasons I wanted one was because they are meant to be very slick and non binding - I wanted the 'perfect' hunting rifle. But it just so happens mine binds! If I lived in Sweden, Canada or the US I wouldn't worry and would get another. It's not the actual operation of it that annoys me - it's the idea it's not working as it should or as it could.

Basically I really want it slick!
 

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i know been there on that beautiful mark x......i bought the 3# over a pint cans of Moly at an army surplus store 20 years ago... have two left...gave a half can to my friend two years back....
many products are out there? but i haven't had to buy any....
some one will chime in i'm sure.....
let me say my MY FAVORITE and the slickest action made in the world is the 1900 Husky/ CARL GUSTAF actions bar none!
for accuracy too in comparing all Huskquvarna's actions ever made 1900 1#.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'll keep asking around then
let me say my MY FAVORITE and the slickest action made in the world is the 1900 Husky/ CARL GUSTAF actions bar none!
for accuracy too in comparing all Huskquvarna's actions ever made 1900 1#.
I've heard this too - however I like CRF. So that leaves my holy grail as the 1640! Now if only I had one that didn't bind...
 

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Mil-Comm TW25B grease is about as slick as they come without the big mess that graphite or thick moly greases can make. The old M1/M-14 synthetic grease in in the little plastic pill bottle is also quite slick.

...let me say my MY FAVORITE and the slickest action made in the world is the 1900 Husky/ CARL GUSTAF actions bar none!
for accuracy too in comparing all Huskquvarna's actions ever made 1900 1#.
DK,
Have you tried a Krag? They'll change your mind.
 

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I would be very careful with any polishing/stoning you do. You say it is a loose fit, well, stoning will only make it looser. Somethimes these things bind because they are dirty. Give it a good thorough cleaning and try things again. Toothbrushes work well in the rear bridge area.

It's hard to advise because there are many mnay things that can cause binding. As I said, in my experience, the extractor causes most perceived binding. Dirty and grit are a close second. Then of course the other things that have already been mentioned like scope base screws that are too long and to a lessor extent, actions screws or a flexing action.

Earlier this year I came accross an online auction for a commercial mauser (Voere) that the seller said had a rough bolt. The ad went on to say that it had new scope mounts installed. As soon as I read that I knew what had happened. The scope base screws were too long. I figured that was about a 90% probability of teh rough bolt issues and if not, at the bid I put in I could still part it out and make money. Turns out I was right and 10 minutes of disassembly,shortening of screws, and reassembly and the gun functioned flawlessly.
 

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Based on the pics, your description of the problem and the newer looking bases/rings, I would take a closer look/feel at the top of the bridge. The rubbing along the bottom of the bolt could be caused by less clearance at the top. Even if the screws are not protruding, I suggest checking for burrs around the tapped holes. Yes, this happened to me as well. I carefully used a diamond file of the right profile to clean it up. Hope you find an easy solution!
 

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owned two krag tuned built sporters...they are not as slick nor will the bolt failing forward partially lock the bolt like a 1900...

ordteck :moly wiped on and off ...is not even visible, never thick, messy when applied properly as a film....

i never use graphite it builds up in tighter tolerances.
 

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Hi, have you figured this issue out? I have an early sixties 1640 actioned rifle with a similar issue. I thought at first it was because the gun was so dirty when I bought it, but I've cleaned everything up as best I could and it's still kind of binding when I open it. I should add, it had a crappy looking 2 pc. weaver base on it when I got it, but it acts up even w/o the base on. I've since bought a Leupold one pc. for it, but it's not yet installed.
 

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weaver bases may look cheep...... but work with out problems... light-durable, strong.. excellent for the time period and re-establishment of looks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi, have you figured this issue out? I have an early sixties 1640 actioned rifle with a similar issue. I thought at first it was because the gun was so dirty when I bought it, but I've cleaned everything up as best I could and it's still kind of binding when I open it. I should add, it had a crappy looking 2 pc. weaver base on it when I got it, but it acts up even w/o the base on. I've since bought a Leupold one pc. for it, but it's not yet installed.
No I haven't. At the moment I'm just living with it. I can't see it improving and I don't see many options. Especially as you just can't get 1640s in this country. I guess I could sell it and import one from Sweden if I get overcome with rage...

Mines got the cheap aly weaver bases two. As DK says, nothign wrong with them...
 

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Yeah- the Weaver bases are cheap - but - for all my heavy guns, ie: heavy recoilers, I've always prefered Weaver bases. I've never had trouble with them in 40 years of use, no binding scope tubes nor the rings loosening nor scopes sliding in the rings - with any of the .375's or .458's I've used them on.

I like other rings better - Leupold, Talley, Redfield (same as Leuys), but the Weaves always seem to end up on my Mauser actioned heavy calibre guns.
 

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1640, My grandfather had an old browning that had the same problem as you, he had bought it used but got use to the bolt and pulled it straight pretty damn fast! he called the previous owner (Slap Happy) he slapped the bolt open way toooo hard and pulled to the left, with time the results are sort of like yours. Enjoy her (my gramps did his) and try to lube up that bolt and find the sweet spot for that straight pull, p,s dont increase the slag by grinding etc.. lube it and it is what it is, shes still a ferrari, shes just a little slow getting into neutral, good luck B2
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
1640, My grandfather had an old browning that had the same problem as you, he had bought it used but got use to the bolt and pulled it straight pretty damn fast! he called the previous owner (Slap Happy) he slapped the bolt open way toooo hard and pulled to the left, with time the results are sort of like yours. Enjoy her (my gramps did his) and try to lube up that bolt and find the sweet spot for that straight pull, p,s dont increase the slag by grinding etc.. lube it and it is what it is, shes still a ferrari, shes just a little slow getting into neutral, good luck B2
lol, well put. I'm sure I can live with it as she's a beauty anyway.
 

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Is it a known problem on 1640s? My Brno 98 doesn't bind at all.
I bought a 1964/1965 1640 this week.
I have the same problem.
I took the gun apart.
Tried it without collar/extractor.
Tried it detached from wood.
Checked the scope mount screws. Double-checked everything - alles in ordnung.
But it binds unless pulled back in a straight line. It feels as if it's the bridge area that binds, as this thread concluded.
The gun seems to be unmodified and is externally and internally in good condition, it just binds.
Shot 38 rounds through it on Tuesday, really had to yank that bolt, no malfunctions and good accuracy but pulling the bolt was like eating pickled onions, doable but not fun.
 

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I bought a 1964/1965 1640 this week.
I have the same problem.
I took the gun apart.
Tried it without collar/extractor.
Tried it detached from wood.
Checked the scope mount screws. Double-checked everything - alles in ordnung.
But it binds unless pulled back in a straight line. It feels as if it's the bridge area that binds, as this thread concluded.
The gun seems to be unmodified and is externally and internally in good condition, it just binds.
Shot 38 rounds through it on Tuesday, really had to yank that bolt, no malfunctions and good accuracy but pulling the bolt was like eating pickled onions, doable but not fun.
check bolt release left side seeing if bent a little? that's the problem I believe?
smoke black the bolt see what's erased off bolt by contact?<><dan
 

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check bolt release left side seeing if bent a little? that's the problem I believe?
smoke black the bolt see what's erased off bolt by contact?<><dan
Thank you good Sir - there were at least 3 separate issues with this gun but this was by far the most influencial.
The bolt stop had peened into a mushroomish profile. This accounted for the end-of-travel stickiness.
The in-between-stickiness has not yet completely gone but was minimized by just polishing everything.
3840723
 

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My shorts a bit "in a bind" whenever I see a two decade old Thread with recent resuscitations posts appended! Granting accord to some original era posts within 'like subject' as yet valid advice. Still... "The bloom is off the rose". "Fresh, versus 'historical' Threads, garnering more attention. My observation concerning binding bolt matter in general, such problem most often evincing non-original bolts installed! That situation itself often 'symptomatic' of larger headspace concerns!
Just my take!
John
 

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its a husky's weak link in the 1640 action...Heym marked org. Mauser worse!<><dan
 
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